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Routes in Triangle Rock
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Bucket Brigade T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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EB Jeebies T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stud Pile T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Talking Hands T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown (Double Lieback) T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | B. Westbay & S. Kimball, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 747 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on May 27, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This is a short route on the North face (containing at least 5 routes) of Triangle Rock. It lies just uphill & left of Stud Pile. Although it can be led, a TR might prove more palatable. It is not a destination climb but worth a run if you are already at Triangle Rock.
Approach this as for the East side of Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies East of Twin Owls & is down & East of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.
On the North face of Triangle Rock there is a series of 4 dihedrals. The line that best seems to match S. Kimball's guidebook description of gritty flakes seems to start just to the left of the left-most dihedral (perhaps S. Kimball can clarify?). Step up, find pro in a horizontal to the left, move up into the dihedral with face holds on the right. Gain the top of a flake. Here you step right with a bit of an airy feeling aiming for a prominent jug/bucket to the right. Find a small cam placement before you reach the bucket. Note, the bucket does not feel solid (hence, the taste for a TR); however, you can face climb on smaller features & avoid this bucket. Fire to the top. 60 feet.
You can walkoff down the South face and exit East.
Approach this as for the East side of Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies East of Twin Owls & is down & East of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.
On the North face of Triangle Rock there is a series of 4 dihedrals. The line that best seems to match S. Kimball's guidebook description of gritty flakes seems to start just to the left of the left-most dihedral (perhaps S. Kimball can clarify?). Step up, find pro in a horizontal to the left, move up into the dihedral with face holds on the right. Gain the top of a flake. Here you step right with a bit of an airy feeling aiming for a prominent jug/bucket to the right. Find a small cam placement before you reach the bucket. Note, the bucket does not feel solid (hence, the taste for a TR); however, you can face climb on smaller features & avoid this bucket. Fire to the top. 60 feet.
You can walkoff down the South face and exit East.
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