Bucket Brigade  5.9

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet FA:  B. Westbay & S. Kimball, 1981 Submitted By:  Leo Paik on May 28, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

A topo of Bucket Brigade, watch out for the bucket...

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Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed from March 1-July 31 or until further notice: Twin Owls, Rock One, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sheep Mountain, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Lightning Rock and Checkerboard Rock are currently closed. The closures include the named rock formations and the areas extending 100 yards surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes and climber's access trails to the formation. Alligator Rock is also closed. www.nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/area_closures.htm This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is a short route on the North face (containing at least 5 routes) of Triangle Rock. It lies just uphill & left of Stud Pile. Although it can be led, a TR might prove more palatable. It is not a destination climb but worth a run if you are already at Triangle Rock.

Approach this as for the East side of Twin Owls & Gollum's Arch. Approach as for Gollum's Arch, head down a gully, then traverse to the crag. This rock lies East of Twin Owls & is down & East of Gollum's Arch. Expect a bit of bush.

On the North face of Triangle Rock there is a series of 4 dihedrals. The line that best seems to match S. Kimball's guidebook description of gritty flakes seems to start just to the left of the left-most dihedral (perhaps S. Kimball can clarify?). Step up, find pro in a horizontal to the left, move up into the dihedral with face holds on the right. Gain the top of a flake. Here you step right with a bit of an airy feeling aiming for a prominent jug/bucket to the right. Find a small cam placement before you reach the bucket. Note, the bucket does not feel solid (hence, the taste for a TR); however, you can face climb on smaller features & avoid this bucket. Fire to the top. 60 feet.

You can walkoff down the South face and exit East.

Protection 

Mostly cams, slings, a bit of trust. The TR anchors are #0.75 to #1 Camalot size.