Buck Dance  V4

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Type:  Boulder, 12 feet Consensus:  V4 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  skinny legs and all on Feb 3, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Governor Stable requires membership or a paid pass. The Circuit Area is currnetly closed to all climbing while access to the area is negotiated. Please respect the closed / no tresspassing signs posted near the pyramid. The rest of GS proper remains open to members and daypass holders. MORE INFO >>> Due to the fact that Governor Stable is located on private property, a lease was secured with the landowners. The terms of this lease state that GS is open from 1/1 thru 8/31 of 2011, 2012, and 2013. No information is available regarding climbing access after 2013! DO NOT TRESSPASS when the area is closed to climbing, you could jeopardize access for the future. See friendsofgs.org/ for the latest details. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This problem climbs the left side of the Dish boulder starting with the left hand on a circular dish and the right on a slanting ramp. Pull onto the wall and you can use an edge. Stand up and reach to the horizontal seam and there is a tiny finger pocket that you can use to balance. Then make a big committing move way up and left, the best place to aim for is a basketballish shaped area on the lip perhaps 3 feet right of the left arete and then mantel. The left arete is off and should not come into play anyway. The way I always did it was fun and dynamic.

A fun variation called Buck Dance Direct at V4+ is to head straight up the even blanker scoop just above the start holds to a even slopier top out that is directly above. There are even fewer holds to aid in the stand up. Top out maybe 4 feet right of the regular problem spot, about 6 feet right of the boulder's left arete. Do not use any of the jugs on the lip like can be used for the Dish problems. You will be groping and reaching way back from the lip onto the rounded top to mantel.

The left arete and face can be climbed as a layback at about V0.

Location 

Cool looking left side of the Dish slab.

Protection 

Pads and a spotter as there is a rock in the landing zone.