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Buch-Goin
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3.6 from 9 votes
Type: | Trad, 430 ft (130 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Esteban Buch & José Luis Goin, 1981 |
Page Views: | 1,442 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Gabriel Kiritz on Feb 3, 2015 |
Admins: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Description
Begin 5m below the base of a steep dihedral leading to a distinct roof (9+ crux). Traverse right under the roof, then continue up to the first belay. Follow a series of diverging cracks, trending left, before traversing left to avoid another roof and reaching a loose platform (p2 belay). Continue by circling left and making way to false summit block (p3 belay), then make exposed moves around either side of the false summit, continue exposed traverse before final moves to la cumbre.
Location
East face of Aguja Campanile Esloveno, most obvious and left-most dihedral leading to the shoulder at 2/3 height of the tower. Start requires harder moves off of bergschrund in spring conditions, or an alternate, easy, but unprotected traverse start from the left. Rappel the route using 1 70 m rope, requires 1 5th class downclimb move to reach start.
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