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BT Express 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Shannon Stegg, Larry Myers - 1980
Page Views: 1,245
Submitted By: andjoely on May 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Tough, sustained stemming gets you through this on...

Description 

Amazing route with really thin and funky stemming. Crank a V1 start over a not so great landing to the first gear pretty high up, then climb the thin crack/corner to the P1 ledge of Primitive Paradox. Do it!

Location 

15 feet left of Primitive Paradox.

Protection 

The corner takes good small nuts but doesn't accept good small cams until near its end.


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By Stephen F
From: GA/CO
May 2, 2010

aka Bong Toke Express
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Mar 14, 2013

Thought the crux was in the corner up high. It takes ballnutz really well also, before the finger sized pieces. The climb can also be TR'ed easily after climbing Primitive Paradox. Not a bad idea considering the R start.
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Mar 16, 2013

My first 5.11 lead 30 plus years ago now. I still remember feeling like I was bad ass after sending that rig. No ball nuts or TCUs back then, but we did have RPs and those tiny Chouninard wired stoppers, classic line.