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Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 17
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Routes in Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)
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Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Golden Triangle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Northeast Buttress T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), 12 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | (FFA Musiyenko Vitaliy, Caitlin Taylor 2014) |
| Page Views: | 6,050 total · 58/month |
| Shared By: | SirTobyThe3rd M on Sep 23, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Pitch 1 - 5.7 or 5.8. - More of an approach pitch. Starts with some blocky crack climbing below the big obvious corner in the middle of the face. Gear belay below the prominent wide corner on a large ledge. 100ft
Pitch 2 - 5.10a - Nice hand and fist jamming grows into a wider crack before the terrain eases up. A bit burly. Gear belay in an alcove. 50ft
Pitch 3 - 5.10a. - Handjam and chimney up till you reach a roof with an old bolt. Pull the roof and belay from a bolted belay around the corner. 50ft
Pitch 4 - 5.8. - This pitch may be combined with the next, but breaking it in two should prevent the rope drag. You climb up and left from the belay towards the obvious wide crack system going up (old bolts can be seen next to the crack) the middle of the formation. You don't climb up that system. Belay at the base or where it makes sense or to the right. Gear belay if you stop here. 70ft
Pitch 5 - 5.9. - continue traversing rightward across the horizontal feldspar dikes to another system on the right side of the "heart." Face climb through easier terrain with sparse pro till you reach the weakness. Part way up it you'll see an anchor. One bolt and gear. 100ft
Pitch 6 - 5.9 or 5.10a. - Traverse right past a fixed head (from the FA of Et Tu Brute) from the belay and get into a good hand crack. There is a perfect blue metolius placement next to the head, which was placed (I have no idea why) by the FA party. Climb up it and continue right towards the prow where another bolted anchor awaits on the far right. You are aiming for the obvious splitter which is seen above, going through a few roofs. 100ft
Pitch 7 - 5.10a. Climb up to the overhang and pull over onto the prow with a crack going towards a roof. Pull one of the smaller roofs and belay at a bush (fingers to medium cams - gear belay) or combine with the next pitch if you have a 70M rope. 40ft
Pitch 8 - 5.11-. Great splitter. Pull the roof on thin jams and ring locks. Jam up a beautiful crack which grows from thin hands to perfect hands, to cupped hands and fists. Fun! 120ft
Pitch 9 - 5.9. Continue up the crack system above to a single bolt belay at a nice stance. The belay is left of the main system, on a separate fridge sized block. 100ft
Pitch 10 - 5.11- or 5.10d. Blocky crack climbing in the corner takes you to a wide bulge in the middle of the pitch. More steep crack climbing in the corner above that. Bigger cams are nice to have on this pitch, but could do it without. Continue up to a bolted belay on top of the route. 140ft
Another 500 ft of soloing, simul-climbing or a few pitches of belayed climbing where it makes sense. Difficulties to 5.6-5.9 could be encountered, based on how interesting do you want to make it. Summit has great views, enjoy!
Pitch 2 - 5.10a - Nice hand and fist jamming grows into a wider crack before the terrain eases up. A bit burly. Gear belay in an alcove. 50ft
Pitch 3 - 5.10a. - Handjam and chimney up till you reach a roof with an old bolt. Pull the roof and belay from a bolted belay around the corner. 50ft
Pitch 4 - 5.8. - This pitch may be combined with the next, but breaking it in two should prevent the rope drag. You climb up and left from the belay towards the obvious wide crack system going up (old bolts can be seen next to the crack) the middle of the formation. You don't climb up that system. Belay at the base or where it makes sense or to the right. Gear belay if you stop here. 70ft
Pitch 5 - 5.9. - continue traversing rightward across the horizontal feldspar dikes to another system on the right side of the "heart." Face climb through easier terrain with sparse pro till you reach the weakness. Part way up it you'll see an anchor. One bolt and gear. 100ft
Pitch 6 - 5.9 or 5.10a. - Traverse right past a fixed head (from the FA of Et Tu Brute) from the belay and get into a good hand crack. There is a perfect blue metolius placement next to the head, which was placed (I have no idea why) by the FA party. Climb up it and continue right towards the prow where another bolted anchor awaits on the far right. You are aiming for the obvious splitter which is seen above, going through a few roofs. 100ft
Pitch 7 - 5.10a. Climb up to the overhang and pull over onto the prow with a crack going towards a roof. Pull one of the smaller roofs and belay at a bush (fingers to medium cams - gear belay) or combine with the next pitch if you have a 70M rope. 40ft
Pitch 8 - 5.11-. Great splitter. Pull the roof on thin jams and ring locks. Jam up a beautiful crack which grows from thin hands to perfect hands, to cupped hands and fists. Fun! 120ft
Pitch 9 - 5.9. Continue up the crack system above to a single bolt belay at a nice stance. The belay is left of the main system, on a separate fridge sized block. 100ft
Pitch 10 - 5.11- or 5.10d. Blocky crack climbing in the corner takes you to a wide bulge in the middle of the pitch. More steep crack climbing in the corner above that. Bigger cams are nice to have on this pitch, but could do it without. Continue up to a bolted belay on top of the route. 140ft
Another 500 ft of soloing, simul-climbing or a few pitches of belayed climbing where it makes sense. Difficulties to 5.6-5.9 could be encountered, based on how interesting do you want to make it. Summit has great views, enjoy!
Location
snwburd.com/bob/maps/hanna_…
Route starts in the middle of the face up the obvious blocky crack system which will take you to a large corner below the 'Heart.'
DESCENT from the back side of the formation, to the west - 3rd class. A little loose but nothing bad. You are aiming to the large boulder field and continue NW. Once you are down, turn east, which will take you back around the formation and to your camp in Little Walker Canyon.
An excellent campsite is located in the pine trees at the south end of the large flat meadow before the talus below the flatiron butte formation.
Route starts in the middle of the face up the obvious blocky crack system which will take you to a large corner below the 'Heart.'
DESCENT from the back side of the formation, to the west - 3rd class. A little loose but nothing bad. You are aiming to the large boulder field and continue NW. Once you are down, turn east, which will take you back around the formation and to your camp in Little Walker Canyon.
An excellent campsite is located in the pine trees at the south end of the large flat meadow before the talus below the flatiron butte formation.
Photos
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