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Technically 4 routes to the right of Drumstick Direct is a pretty cool mixed line on the arete. If you rap off Drumstick Direct and look down to your right, you will see the 2 bolt anchor at the top of the climb.
Begin underneath an overhanging crack where you can get good fingers in a few spots, the crux here is probably negotiating the bushes at the start of the climb. Boulder up to a good 2 finger gaston which enables you to get your feet situated in a way where you can place a piece of gear in the crack once it turns vertical. Most mortals will appreciate a spot while getting in the first piece of gear. The crack pinches out and now follow 3 bolts to the 2 bolt anchor. It has fun climbing on great edges and good use of the arete.
3 bolts to a 2 bolt coldshut anchor and a #1 or 2 Camalot depending on how high you place it in the crack. All bolts are modern.
|By Ken Trout|
From: Golden, CO
Sep 23, 2013
FA: Harvey Miller and Bob Robertson, late 1980s.