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Day Canyon Cragging Routes
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Brush Painted Datsun 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kyle Copeland?
Page Views: 4,424
Submitted By: beerdrinker on Oct 19, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Rich on one of the finest cracks in the Moab area....

Description 

This curving flake, just to the right of Christine's, features excellent jamming on quality rock. One of the best in Day Canyon.

Protection 

Set of cams with extra hand sized pieces.


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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 16, 2004

Really fun pitch! Crux was a thriller.
By Ryan Deppen
Dec 7, 2004
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

INcredible Route!!! I thought it was fairly sustained and the end pinches down when it gets overhanging. I thought the crux was going to the chains, kind of funky jamming. Well worth the hike into the beautiful day canyon. 3 stars for sure.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 31, 2008

A single 60m rope just works for the descent (don't worry about what the book says).
By Robes
From: Leavenworth, Washington
Apr 18, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Genius! Sting in the tail.
By Hockman
Sep 17, 2014

Anyone know anything about a second pitch?
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
2 days ago
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Amazing route. Worth the hike, especially when combined with Saab next door.

I placed a #0.5 camalot to get up to the ledge. Plus a #3 as a directional for my second on the way down.

The thing will take as many #2 camalots as you can carry. I was happy to have a new BD #4 in the lower pod 10' up the main crack, though it isn't necessary. And then some #1 camalots for the start and finish. Book says #0.75, but I didn't place any. You can get a #3 camalot in a few places as well, but it is pretty much #2s for most of the length.

Felt a bit harder than Incredible Handcrack. Way more sustained, but nothing as pumpy as the overhang on IH.