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 ADVANCED
Beardsley Boulders
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Anarchy Crack T 
Brown Sugar S 
Classic Orange 
Fear of Having Sex with Dead People, The S 
Flake, The TR 
Frosted Flakes 
Grandma got run over by a raindeer S 
gripper, The S 
Hamstring 
Hot Sweaty Buns S 
Mantle Puss 
Monkey Lust 
Naked Bimbos from Mars T 
Pencil Thin 
Pencil Thin Flake 
Pencil Thin, Right Arete 
Perforator right 
Prow, The 
Spank Your Monkey T 
Teenage Enema Nurses in Bondage T 
Unnamed V3 TR 
Whales Back 
Wiley Left 
Wiley Right 

Brown Sugar 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Jim Guadnola/Bob Blair 12/1990
Page Views: 344
Submitted By: Scott Frankel on Dec 11, 2011

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Suzanne face climbing on 'Brown Sugar'

Description 

This route used to be rated 5.6, but some holds on the start have broken off during the years. Now the start is 5.7, perhaps even 5.8. Easier 5.6 face climbing after the start. This climb alternates from good hands/no feet to good feet/no hands.

Location 

This is the bolted route furthest on the left on the 'Fear Rock' formation. This climb is to the right of the crack climb 'Naked Bimbos from Mars (5.7)'. The approach to 'Fear Rock' is not trivial. Expect about 20 minutes of boulder hopping.

Protection 

Four bolts to a single bolt rappel or walk off. Looks like there used to be two bolts at the top, but only one survives now.


Photos of Brown Sugar Slideshow Add Photo
Fear Rock. 'Brown Sugar' is the bolted route on th...
BETA PHOTO: Fear Rock. 'Brown Sugar' is the bolted route on th...

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By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is great route. First few moves are 5.7, then eases off to 5.5 or easier. Bring couple wired nuts to tie off "naked bolt anchor at top. Either that or slot couple metolius master cams 00, 0, or 1 in shallow crack on right side.