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Beardsley Boulders
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Brown Sugar 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jim Guadnola/Bob Blair 12/1990
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: Scott Frankel on Dec 11, 2011
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Suzanne face climbing on 'Brown Sugar'

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This route used to be rated 5.6, but some holds on the start have broken off during the years. Now the start is 5.7, perhaps even 5.8. Easier 5.6 face climbing after the start. This climb alternates from good hands/no feet to good feet/no hands.


This is the bolted route furthest on the left on the 'Fear Rock' formation. This climb is to the right of the crack climb 'Naked Bimbos from Mars (5.7)'. The approach to 'Fear Rock' is not trivial. Expect about 20 minutes of boulder hopping.


Four bolts to a single bolt rappel or walk off. Looks like there used to be two bolts at the top, but only one survives now.

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Fear Rock. 'Brown Sugar' is the bolted route on the left of this formation
BETA PHOTO: Fear Rock. 'Brown Sugar' is the bolted route on th...
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By William Nelson
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

This is great route. First few moves are 5.7, then eases off to 5.5 or easier. Bring couple wired nuts to tie off "naked bolt anchor at top. Either that or slot couple metolius master cams 00, 0, or 1 in shallow crack on right side.