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This route used to be rated 5.6, but some holds on the start have broken off during the years. Now the start is 5.7, perhaps even 5.8. Easier 5.6 face climbing after the start. This climb alternates from good hands/no feet to good feet/no hands.
This is the bolted route furthest on the left on the 'Fear Rock' formation. This climb is to the right of the crack climb 'Naked Bimbos from Mars (5.7)'. The approach to 'Fear Rock' is not trivial. Expect about 20 minutes of boulder hopping.
Four bolts to a single bolt rappel or walk off. Looks like there used to be two bolts at the top, but only one survives now.
BETA PHOTO: Fear Rock. 'Brown Sugar' is the bolted route on th...
|By William Nelson|
From: Cave Creek, AZ
Dec 9, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
This is great route. First few moves are 5.7, then eases off to 5.5 or easier. Bring couple wired nuts to tie off "naked bolt anchor at top. Either that or slot couple metolius master cams 00, 0, or 1 in shallow crack on right side.