Brown Sugar  5.7+

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet Consensus:  5.7 [details] FA:  Jim Guadnola/Bob Blair 12/1990 Submitted By:  Scott Frankel on Dec 11, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Suzanne face climbing on 'Brown Sugar'

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Description 

This route used to be rated 5.6, but some holds on the start have broken off during the years. Now the start is 5.7, perhaps even 5.8. Easier 5.6 face climbing after the start. This climb alternates from good hands/no feet to good feet/no hands.

Location 

This is the bolted route furthest on the left on the 'Fear Rock' formation. This climb is to the right of the crack climb 'Naked Bimbos from Mars (5.7)'. The approach to 'Fear Rock' is not trivial. Expect about 20 minutes of boulder hopping.

Protection 

Four bolts to a single bolt rappel or walk off. Looks like there used to be two bolts at the top, but only one survives now.

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BETA PHOTO: Fear Rock. 'Brown Sugar' is the bolted route on th...