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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Brown Sugar 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Schuler, 1988
Page Views: 1,470
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 4, 2001
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On the upper section of "Brown Sugar". Super thin ...


100 feet West of the Jewel Of The Mild wall is a dark brown wall five excellent lines on it. There is a 5.10 on the left (Candy Apple Grey) and just right of this is Brown Sugar. Continuous edge climbing on excellent stone provides a fine thin problem with some technicality and long reaches. Nice way to up the ante a little as the day starts to unfold. All of the routes on this wall get geat sun most of the day, but for some reason this sector sees a bit less traffic than other walls. Good stone, fine climbing, good pro.


Half a dozen draws and a rope.

Photos of Brown Sugar Slideshow Add Photo
Me leading Brown Sugar in Penitente Canyon.
Me leading Brown Sugar in Penitente Canyon.
Technical and balancy would describe this route to a tee!
Technical and balancy would describe this route to...
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By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Mar 11, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Thin start leads to thin climbing. :-) That first bolt seems way up there, but once you make the move to the standing position about eight feet up, it's good. We started off left of the first bolt as we saw no way to go straight up at it. Nice route.

By Kevin Landolt
From: Fort Collins, Wyoming
Mar 20, 2011

Great route - also a good warm up for some of the harder stuff.

By William Mondragon
From: My car
Feb 10, 2012
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Looks amazing, climbs slightly less than so.