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 ADVANCED
Loch Vale Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Smear? T 
Crystal Meth T 
Free Strike Zone T 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim T 
L of Lochluster T 
Lochluster T 
M5? hand crack T 
Mixed Feelings T 
Mo' Flo' Than Go T 
R of Lochluster TR 
Replicant (unnamed) TR 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T 
Rock, Wood, Ice T 

Brown Smear? 

WI5- R

   
Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus: WI5- [details]
FA: unknown
Season: wet & cold fall/winter
Page Views: 576
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Nov 17, 2002

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Start of the smear.

Description 

This is that inviting brown smear just a bit right of where the trail intersects with the main Loch Vale Gorge cliff.

It is best as a TR though some have solo'ed it like Ed and probably some have led it. There is a tree above it with slings that suggest it's popular. It certainly does draw one's eye.

Start up thin ice where the snow abuts the rock/ice. Move up delicately and tap thicker bits of ice up less than vertical terrain. You do wonder why you actually stick to the stuff. As you approach the brown ice above, you can start to swing your tools. Best/thickest ice is on the right in a shallow corner as it steepens for a bit. Beware on the top out of this bit as you can find nothing solid for a move or two. Continue up a bit of brown ice above to the tree. It is fun.

Oh yeah, Ed said he wouldn't solo it again.

Protection 

Kahunas and stubbies.

Toprope Protection 

Slings from a tree.


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