Brown Smear?  WI5- R

461 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 90 feet Consensus:  WI5- [details] FA:  unknown Season:  wet & cold fall/winter Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Nov 17, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Start of the smear.

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

This is that inviting brown smear just a bit right of where the trail intersects with the main Loch Vale Gorge cliff.

It is best as a TR though some have solo'ed it like Ed and probably some have led it. There is a tree above it with slings that suggest it's popular. It certainly does draw one's eye.

Start up thin ice where the snow abuts the rock/ice. Move up delicately and tap thicker bits of ice up less than vertical terrain. You do wonder why you actually stick to the stuff. As you approach the brown ice above, you can start to swing your tools. Best/thickest ice is on the R in a shallow corner as it steepens for a bit. Beware on the top out of this bit as you can find nothing solid for a move or two. Continue up a bit of brown ice above to the tree. Fun.

Oh yeah, Ed said he wouldn't solo it again.

Protection 

Kahunas and stubbies.

Toprope Protection 

Slings from a tree.

Photos of Brown Smear? Slideshow

Add Photo

Into the route.