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 ADVANCED
Meader Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Man on Campus S 
Brown Reason to Live S 
Cohesion 
Hawaiian Bill S 
Macroputz TR 
Man In The Black Pajamas, The S 
Micro Putz S,TR 
Nihilist S 
Ninja TR 
Patent Pending S 
Pork Tornado S 

Brown Reason to Live 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dave Groth
Page Views: 2,921
Submitted By: Andrew May on May 12, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Darin Limvere at the crux of Brown Reason

Description 

Very tough route. Very sustained.
Was 5.13a but was downgraded thanks to a broken hold.


Location 

Third route on the left.


Protection 

Bring about 9 quickdraws



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Moves just above the crux.
Moves just above the crux.
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By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 4, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Where was the hold that broke?

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jun 14, 2007

The hold that broke was the pinch just above the hueco, right at the top of the route. It was a nasty wide pinch and is now a very positive pistol grip.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 15, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Ah. So right when you are pretty damn pumped. I only got on this route this year so hadn't been on it before. Thanks. Great route anyway.

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Jul 15, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

I can't remember, but was it Scott S. who broke the hold? Trav, you might know. I remember climbing the route before the hold broke and then one day it was a giant pinch grip that it is today. I remember old school UW-L students calling this a 13b. Dave always said 13a, I agree. Funny how the Meader wall can change.

By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Jul 23, 2007

yea remo, scott was the one. The routes feel a lot more solid now a days compared to 5 years ago at least at the meter wall. These routes take soooooooooooooo long to get clean.

By GForge
Aug 1, 2007

Other holds beyond the pinch have broken off this thing. Besides the pinch, all holds I can think of have only made this route harder (especially the damage Gabe did while working into his eventual redpoint :) - that guy just cranks too hard). Current grade is accurate to the last time I was on it. Great route.

By Bingman
From: Denver, CO
Nov 9, 2007
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Best route on the wall. It's not over till you clip the chains!

By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Oct 4, 2010
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

There must have been some substantial hold breakage (making the holds much better). As of now, this is very consistent (possibly easier) with pork tornado and definitely no harder than 12b (no where close to 12d). So don't let the grade scare you. When the hold above the last bolt breaks it could be a touch harder.