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The Ultimates/Mexican Pocket
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Brown Nosing 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: R. Brown, D. Mabe & Rusty???
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 244
Submitted By: Robbie Brown on May 26, 2013

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Description 

So here's the deal. I don't know if i am the first (kind of doubt it) but i am claiming it for now.
Starts with a thin hands corner (5.9) to a wide V-slot with a handcrack in the back. Optional belay (50ft ***) From here continue up burly V-Slot wide crack with handcrack in the back up to a slung tree. 125ft

Rap off upper section of tree down and to the left to keep ropes from getting stuck in the crack.


Location 

40" to the left of White Wedding
Rap from tree with slings to the ground with 2 ropes


Protection 

Doubles .5-4 with 3-4 #1-#3 C4's
Two Ropes



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By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 28, 2013

Robbie revived this hidden gem! Quality climbing for a long pitch, though would work very well to break it up into two short pitches, belaying at the comfy orange scoop ledge (seen in pic below at the treeline). The rock deteriorates a bit the higher you get, though the jams are secure. The tree we rapped from can be seen below too.

Brown Nosing shown below, about 40' left of White Wedding:

The dihedral of White Wedding, including the upper pitch.  Anchor is on ledge just right of bush at the top of the dihedral
The dihedral of White Wedding, including the upper pitch. Anchor is on ledge just right of bush at the top of the dihedral