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Broughton Bluff

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(1) North Face 
(2) Hanging Gardens 
(3) Red Wall 
(4) Spring Rock 
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From MP's sister site: MTB Project

Broughton Bluff 

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Location: 45.5414, -122.38 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Nate Ball, Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 22, 2006
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Red Wall, Broughton Bluff


Comprised of around a dozen cliffs on the outskirts of Portland, Broughton Bluff provides easy access for the local urban climber. Many quality routes ranging from 5.6 topropes to 5.12 leads on Broughton’s jumbled basalt cliffs are available for climbers of all abilities.

Climbing is possible all year at Broughton but is difficult in the winter due to damp and soggy conditions. Late Spring, Summer, and Fall are best.

Getting There 

Broughton Bluff is located at the mouth of the Columbia Gorge near the town of Troutdale. Take I-84 East from Portland to the Lewis & Clark State Park exit, turn left at the stop sign and drive under the railroad bridge, then park in the parking lot on the left. Take the trail leading towards the hillside and follow it up for a few hundred meters to the cliffs.

68 Total Routes

['4 Stars',10],['3 Stars',31],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broughton Bluff:
The Sickle   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   (2) Hanging Gardens
Edges and Ledges   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   (2) Hanging Gardens
Gandalf's Grip   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   (1) North Face
Traffic Court   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 42'   (1) North Face
Classic Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   (3) Red Wall
Sheer Stress   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   (3) Red Wall
Red Eye   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 60'   (3) Red Wall
Superstition   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   (5) Bat Wall
Physical Graffiti   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Lost Boys   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 70'   (5) Bat Wall
Gorilla Love Affair   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport   (6) Jungle Cliff
Critical Mass   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   (3) Red Wall
Pinhead   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Kashmir   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   (3) Red Wall
Bloodline   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 80'   (5) Bat Wall
Dracula   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Bad Omen   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Bela Lugosi   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   (5) Bat Wall
Manson Family Reunion   5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   (5) Bat Wall
Dark Tower   5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c     Sport, 102'   (1) North Face
Browse More Classics in Broughton Bluff

Featured Route For Broughton Bluff
Gorilla Love Affair

Gorilla Love Affair 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  OR : Broughton Bluff : (6) Jungle Cliff
Gorilla Love Affair is a terrific climb on the left side of the Jungle Cliff. It is unusually clean for a Jungle Cliff climb, possibly due to its (relative) popularity. G.L.A. offers several strenuous but fun cruxes which are separated by good rests. A small cam can be placed after the last bolt before transitioning left onto the finishing slab (although the remaining climbing is fairly casual). ...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

Photos of Broughton Bluff Slideshow Add Photo
Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff
Beautiful day at Broughton Bluff
View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in humid summer conditions. I was surprisd by the excellence of this crag, especially the 5.10 and 5.11 on the Red Wall.  Close to the airport, Columbia River Gorge, and a bunch of skiable volcanoes too.  Morning shade is best when the heat is on.
View from under Sheer Stress of the belay zone in ...
Red Wall, left side
Red Wall, left side
Comments on Broughton Bluff Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 5, 2014
By Dannyr
Feb 14, 2006

Many areas in Oregon have poison oak, but Broughton is thick with the stuff. Watch out for it!

By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Apr 14, 2006

Also, don't leave your stuff in the car. There have been numberous break-ins here with alot of gear getting stolen in the past. I myself have seen broken windows in the parking lot. It's sad but true. Just take everything with you or lock it up out of sight.

By Bryson Slothower
Aug 19, 2007

any info on the newer bolted line left of Traffic Court? 1st pitch felt 5.9 but the upper pitch looks hard...??

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Aug 13, 2008

It is called Dark Tower.

By doggy
Sep 9, 2008

WOW!! This is one of the best climbing areas in Portland. It offers a little bit of everything on good solid rock. The routes are interesting and fun...and although some may take a bit to figure out it'll only make you stronger.

By Peter Franzen
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 29, 2009

I am in full agreement Matt. I think there's going to be great support in the community for the removal of the new bolts.

By peachy spohn
Aug 26, 2010

I am trying to get the information about a route that begins up Dracula and then veers left after the bolt that is past the rail. I cleaned off the face (and the small roof it pulls over) and did the entire sequence of moves on TR. I would like to add a bolt to it for leading & was also wondering if the route has ever been done? I think Tom Scales?? may have bolted it.

By Brianwookie
Jun 19, 2012

I lost a mens wedding band here. If you find one in this area, please contact me.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 18, 2013


By judee
Apr 5, 2014

When my wife and I were dating back in the mid 1950's, we used to climb to the top of the bluff via a path through some large boulders. At some time since then that area slewed off and is now called the Red cliff, or something like that. Back then, the park was just sand and gravel, and blackberry brush. People came there to shoot guns up against the cliff.