Brothers in Arms  5.12c

644 page views Good page?

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Colin Morehead 2003 Season:  Summer Submitted By:  Evan Stevens on Jun 29, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Description 

Brothers in Arms is yet another amazingly classic Freeway variation, starting off of 'sky crag ledge'. To approach climb the first pitch of Freeway through to the top of Daylight Crack. Belay here. Two options for the next pitch, a 5.10 follows the crack straight up, or go right to a bolt and some thin face moves at 10+. Either way about 12m of climbing brings you to a nice ledge on the edge of the steep, golden buttress. The line is the right most one from the ledge.

p1. 12b, 5 bolts, a few pieces to 2". Steep and pumpy liebacking brings you to a belay stance after 15m and a 2 bolt anchor. At the end of the pitch you can either fire in a hard to place piece or punch it for the chains. Good whipper spectating can be had on the end of this one!

p2. 12c 3 bolts, lots of small gear/nuts. Some steep and funky climbing past a few bolts and dike rock leads to a tips corner. Climb the tips corner with small nuts for about 5m and look to break out right onto the face for the belay ledge. 15m.

p3. 11+ Joins the big slick. More tips liebacking with a few bolts, kind of bold, watch out for some loose rock.

p4. 5.9 Runout and bold to the truckstop ledge and the rest of Freeway.

Location 

Start as for Freeway.

Protection 

1.5 sets of gear from micro to #3 camalot. Bolterd anchors.