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 ADVANCED
The Right Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Wonderful Life T 
American Caesar T 
Aquarius Rising T 
Barbarian Rising T 
Bootlegger, The T 
Brother From Another Mother AKA B-FAM S 
Brother Of Fortune T 
Consensual Hex T 
Crescent Moon T 
Donald Duckin It T,S 
Dr. Octagon T 
Flavor of the Day T 
Full Steam Ahead T 
Harder They Come, The T 
Helicopter Exodus T 
Kindness T 
Labor Day T 
Locks of Dread T 
Natural Enhancement T 
No Feelings T 
No Utopia T 
Parting Gift T 
Proud Father T 
Resurrection T 
Rice Paddy Ambush T 
Smilin' Jay T 
Snap Happy S 
Soldier of Fortune T 
Soul Market T 
Starry Night T 
Sweet Dreams T 
Tainted Love T 
Trident, The T 
Turn Down, For What? T 
Wasp Whisperer T 

Brother Of Fortune 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: JJ Schlick
Season: Fall, Summer, Spring
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on May 26, 2013

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JMo, getting his fix on Brother of Fortune.

Description 

Though this is a link up, I wanted to add it as a separate pitch so people would know its here. As described below this route makes for the easiest 5.10 climbing on the Right Wall, as well as delivering very consistent climbing at that grade. The line is riddled with positive holds, and It also avoids the rather awkward crux of BFAM which is now suffering from some deteriorating holds at the top of it's crux.

Climb BFAM to the break at 2/3 height just below the small dihedral. Do not clip the bolt in the mini dihedral to your right, but instead move just left on large holds and a very good #0 TCU in a horizontal gas pocket. You can place a couple TCUs here as it is a little ways and a .9+ move to some jugs before your next good gear. Continue moving up the shallow dihedral of Soldier Of Fortune passing good gear (#2) below the final .10- crux which guards the anchor.. Shares anchor with Soldier Of Fortune.


Location 

Starts on BFAM, finishes at the Soldier Of Fortune anchor.

Protection 

Bolts on the first 2/3, then a selection of small TCUs from #00 up, a couple hand sized pieces, and medium wires will all fit...


Photos of Brother Of Fortune Slideshow Add Photo
Brother of Fortune moves one more up from where I ...
Brother of Fortune moves one more up from where I ...

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By JMo
From: Tucson, AZ
Aug 18, 2013

thanks for the heads up, this is a great warm-up option (honestly, for some of us, it's a main event).... don't read this if you aren't looking for gear beta: after clipping the last bolt JJ describes above, you can get a blue metolious in a horizontal out left (if for some idiotic reason like me you forgot your purple metolious), then a .75 in a bit of a flare (maybe this is where the #1 works better?) and then a bomber .4 above this. definitely bring 3-4 long runners.
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 1, 2013

Finally got around to equipping Soldier of Fortune with its own anchor, which this link up now shares instead of climbing all the way to the Smiling Jay ledge. Hard to miss it, and its a clean rope run.