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Bejesus Boulder
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Brother John 
Holy Bejesus 

Brother John 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 14'
Consensus:  Hueco: V8- Font: 7B [details]
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: Lanky on Jun 2, 2010

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Start sitting in a hole, using a good left and decent right crimp in a crack feature. Stab your way into a good left hand crimp and a vicious right hand quartz razor. A big move to a jug, some tree and boulder avoidance technique, and an easier but tallish topout finish the process. Hard, sharp, and a little squeezed.


Around the corner and in a hole to the right of Bejesus. Head up the hill behind Nemesis Traverse following vague social trails. Tricky to find unless you know what you're looking for.


A couple pads and a spotter are a good idea. There's a sharp block right behind you when you're in the crux.

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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 5, 2013

I believe this is also known as 'Tome's Arete'.

If you're having a hard time finding this boulder, check out the photos and accompanying descriptions that I uploaded under 'Bejesus'. They will help you find both that problem and this problem (since they're on the same boulder).
By eddysamson
May 16, 2015
rating: V8- 7B

This isn't Tomes. Tomes is down the hill from the outhouse (now the remains of it) this is actually pretty far from Tomes since its up the mountainside a bit.
By eddysamson
May 24, 2015
rating: V8- 7B

I found Bejeesus easily enough but where the hell is this thing? I saw chalk on some holds far around the right corner from Bejeesus but it looked really easy with a ton of hold options, couldn't have been an 8.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
May 24, 2015

Bill Patton told me this was also known as 'Tome's Arete' (not to be confused with Tome's Roof) which is why I added that.

As to your question, yes, I believe the chalked line you saw is in fact 'Brother John'. I never tried it so I can't comment on the grade, but Bill seemed confident that it was an 8.
By eddysamson
Jun 4, 2015
rating: V8- 7B

Okay got this thing today, almost flashed it but messed up the top out. Its pretty cool, not sure why it has only 1 star. I didn't hate any of the moves and the so called quartz razor was tame compared to other sharp crimps. There's not many good 8's around the notch so this thing is worth climbing.
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jun 5, 2015

I'd be happy to give up ownership of this page to someone more local. I added it a few years back because there were very few problems in this section.
By eddysamson
Jun 5, 2015
rating: V8- 7B

Hey Lanky any idea if the rock to the left of the tree on this is considered 'off'? My tree avoidance technique was to put my left foot around the other side of the tree so I had right foot to the right of the tree and left foot on the left almost straddling it (but without touching it).
By Lanky
From: Tired
Jun 8, 2015

No idea. Only got on it once about 6 years ago and I have the memory of a goldfish, so...
By Bill Patton 1
From: Underhill
Jun 29, 2015

there are two versions of this. There is a stand start that I think goes around v4 that john tome first did. He was reluctant to name it so i called it "brother john". The harder (much harder) version goes sit down - in which case all other boulders are off. Very hard to keep your right foot from touching the back boulder face - crux. I would call the sit v8. not sure who did the fa of the sit version. i've never heard it called tome's arete - although he for sure did the fa of the stand version.

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