Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki 1988
Page Views: 5,296 total · 35/month
Shared By: Rob Eison on Dec 23, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

To the right of Cookie Mix is the start for a number of route variations, the best of which is Bronco, an incredibly thuggish but stellar 12d. Work into the awkward, slightly overhanging left-facing dihedral and follow along the right-trending series of overlapping roofs until you encounter a large downward pointing flake. Muscle up and to the right of this and finagle a knee bar rest in an obvious pod before tackling the dramatic undercling traverse beneath the huge roof. Pull up and right in the break as you join the headwall finish for A Steep Climb Named Desire.

Location Suggest change

right of Cookie Mix, 2nd route from the left.

Protection Suggest change

Approximately 10 fixed draws to mussies. It can be helpful to back-clean a couple along the way to reduce the rope drag on the headwall.

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