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The Big Roof
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Bronco Billy's T 
Double Time at Sue's Place T 
Guanos Dios T 
Welcome to China T 

Bronco Billy's 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Chuck & Phil ???
Season: any
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: phil broscovak on Jun 1, 2007

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Description 

Bronco Billy's is one of two ways to approach Double Time at Sue's Place. The climbing is more memorable than difficult. But like all Taylor Canyon climbs THINKING is requisite. Boulder up the slippery slab set some pro and climb up as high in the left-facing corner as you can. Now look up and right. Yep, buckaroo that's your steed out there now kick off the spurs and saddle up. Yee Haw, aw crap, did ya forget your Stetson? Ridin' the rock pony is a worthy outing particularly on a rainy day.


Location 

Under the Big Roof and directly below Double Time is a giant step in the slab leading to the roof. The left side, corner system forms Bronco's. The thin and slightly overhanging crack on the arete is Guanos Dios.


Protection 

After the 1st 8 feet the crack provides a wide variety of good protection. You can see the whole thing and decide what you want to tote. Set up an anchor right under the roof and TR Guanos Dios.



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By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Phil,
We used to boulder up into the corner and then traverse right and downclimb, then do it the opposite way. On rainy days under the hang, this slippery monster was the cause of many a turned ankle and "rug burns" on elbows and knees after a sliding fall to the deck.

By phil broscovak
May 21, 2008

Scott you can see they cracks leading up Bronco Billy's in the picture of Guanos Dios. Just above the plant life to the left of the climber. It is at the right hand apex of the bouldering traverse you mentioned. I remember a lot of sketch bouldering sessions under the big roof. Actually it's kind of a blue haze.

By YDPL8S
From: Santa Monica, Ca.
May 21, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Speaking of "bleu haze" (or is that purple?) see?, I can't even tell my right from my left anymore!