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Leaving the ramp for the top
Broken Window climbs the left side of the formation's highest face well left of the Gossamer arete and the window.
A steep weird unprotected start leads to a 4th class rampy section. The first bolt is above this ramp. The business is the last 40 feet, which is thin 5.11 crystal climbing. The climbing isn't bad, but there are better routes of the same grade at South Seas and the Chopping Block - do this if you've done every other 11 at Rushmore.
Probably best to toprope this one after leading Gossamer. The first bolt is a long way up after the rampy section.
Rob moves into the business section of Broken
By Tyson S Arp
Sep 19, 2006
There is a bolt below the ramp to protect the beginning of the climb, however it is missing a hanger. While I didn't lead this climb (TR'd after climbing Gossamer), it seems a reasonably protected climb with the addition of this lower bolt.
By Jon Marek
Apr 24, 2010
a nut protects the bottom well. crux is protected by dubious button-heads.