Broken Tree 

Agreed that BT is not that sustained like a lot of Tower cracks and it does have some good rest stances but I would say it has a definite crux at the top and is 10b. The first pitch makes for a nice moderate 5.6 route of its own.

A must do for all who visit. The moves seem no harder than the crux of Walt Bailey and much easier than Tulgey Wood, Burning Daylight, 1st pitch of Carols Crack or the Belle Fourche Buttress.

Broken tree is 5.10b, it is not 5.9. If you want to lead 5.9 Try solar, walt bailey or assembly line. Assembly line is hard if you dont have good crack climbing skills. If you have good crack climbing skills it is really fun.

I dont want people to be misinformed by individual enteries on this web site, it is very common for climbs to be underrated in the northern hills/spearfish canyon, this trend should not extend to the tower.

Broken tree has some loose rock! There is a flake with chalk all over it that sounds like a bongo drum. By careful when passing it, you can avoid this LOOSE FLAKE by grabbing a solid edge under the loose flake. A pop gets you to the next solid finger lock.

My understanding of Tower grades is in direct contrast to your statement. The YDS system as it applies to routes at DT reflect the single hardest move, ie. a 5.10b route like broken tree has at least one move of 5.10b

Your suggesting of simuclimbing the route can put the leader in danger of a big fall.

This route has great moves, gear and rests. The rests may make it seem easier than 5.10b.

I disagree with john walker's statement that Devil's Tower routes are graded by the difficulty of the hardest move. Devil's Tower, along with Indian Creek, UT, is the epitome of an endurance-based rating system.

For example, El Matador doesn't have a single move harder than 5.9 (or easier than 5.9); you'd be hard pressed to find a move harder than 10a on Mr. Clean; McCarthy West Face is characterized by repeated 10/10+ stemming cruxes without rest. All of these routes, however, are rated between 10+ and solid-11... and rightfully so! Endurance is a real factor affecting the difficulty of a climb.

Broken Tree, however, is a 10b route with a 10b crux, IMO.

I rest my case... Broken Tree is still only 5.9+.

ya ya bla bla. Thanks for the great send off Curt, have fun out there. I do think that Broken Tree is easier than MAC WEST, however they are both rated 5.10b. Whats important here? I feel the most important thing any climber can do is to know and follow the rules currently in place. I'm not trying to kiss the proverbial ass of any land manager but the days of renegade climbers with power drills, chisels, guns, chainsaws, ect. doing as they please is detrimental to climbing as a whole. It is everyones responsibility to know and follow the rules as they exist. If you don't you are risking access to the resource or intense regulation and fees associated with climbing, am I wrong?

Yo Walker,Speaking of illegal acts, What about the Tinton Trail?

Coward,What about the Tinton trail? I rode my bike through the woods where many followed. Is that illegal? My personal ethic in regard to trail building does not allow for use of hand tools.

9?... 10b?... who really cares... it's BEAUTIFUL...

This climb rocks, I love the finger locks at the end of the climb which is the crux, its a gorgous climb, and as long as you can climb a 10 dont worry about how hard it is, the climb is well worth it

I did not think any of the finger lock moves was harder than 5.9

It is less than vertical. There are plenty of feet. The locks are solid. 5.9 finger locks are possible under these circumstances, right?

The climbing is enjoyable but there is plenty of hollow sounding rock on the route. I spoke to other people who climbed the route and they though the rock was fine, but I think a lot of it is rotten. I would recommend the route to confident 10b climbers who are strong enough to be able to check and be discriminate about which holds they use so they can avoid the loose stuff.

The first pitch is a breeze! Good for a beginner leader, good gear, low angle, and fairy short. I would rate the first pitch 5.5, but it is said to be 5.6-5.7