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Broken Tooth
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Broken Tooth 

5.12-

   
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Type: Trad, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.12- [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: eDixon on Nov 5, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Shake n' Bake on Broken Tooth

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Description 

Starts on top of a small block with tight hands in a flare which quickly go to hands and big hands. Pull up into a large cave below the "tooth". Move out left and pull up over the "tooth". Finish up the narrowing left-facing offset to the anchors.


Location 

Starts towards the right side of the wall. Look for the distinctive broken roof and tight hands in a flare start. Great looking line.


Protection 

Three of everything from .5 camalot to 3 camalot. And a 4 and/or 4.5 camalot.



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By Ethan Neff
Aug 13, 2008

This is a brilliant climb! One of my favorites in the Creek. It can be a heart breaker getting shut down at the crux (which is the last 4 feet before the anchors).

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2008

Wow that is tough. The tight corner isn't easy. Pulling the roof to establish on the tooth isn't easy and finishing the .75 to .5 corner would be really rough to jam in good style. I had to lieback ig time to finish this one.