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Broken Tooth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles 
Blue Sky Mining 
Broken Tooth 
Brown Baby Teeth 
Chemotherapy 
Dental Floss Tycoon 
Dentist Chair 
Gingivitis 
Gold Crown 
Heat Searcher 
Incisor, The 
Inflictor 
Midnight Oil 
Mondo 
Mushrooms With Hefner 
Numbing the Wild 
Polygrip 
Rhythm Method 
Rock Lobster 
Root Canal 
Snaggle Tooth 
Terminal Fistula 
Tooth Fairy 
Tooth Pac 
Unbelievable 
unnamed 
Unnamed (Left side) 
unnamed 5.10/11 (?) 
Unnamed short 11- 

Broken Tooth 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.10074, -109.56618 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44,514
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: William McGehee on Oct 7, 2003
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Clear
54° | 32°
Partly Cloudy
65° | 41°
Partly Cloudy
71° | 46°
Rain
52° | 31°
Chance of Rain
53° | 33°
It was cold at night, but great in the day!

Description 

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.


Getting There 

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.


29 Total Routes


['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',7],['5.11',14],['5.12',8],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
The Incisor   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Blue Sky Mining   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
unnamed   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Midnight Oil   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dental Floss Tycoon   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Unnamed short 11-   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   
Tooth Fairy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Gold Crown   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Rock Lobster   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 115'   
Polygrip   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Dentist Chair   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Heat Searcher   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Mondo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Broken Tooth   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 100'   
Inflictor   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Rhythm Method   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 55'   
Unbelievable   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth

Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Second pitch of Heat Searcher

Heat Searcher 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a  UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
Heat Searcher is a phenominal climb at a cliff of phenominal climbs. It obviously receives less traffic than the other classics, perhaps because of the apparently chossy approach pitch, or perhaps just because there is an approach pitch, period. In any case, those who overlook this climb are missing out.Begin in the chimney behind the pillar just left of Rock Lobster.P1: Climb the loose chimney and then eventually up twin cracks on somewhat suspect rock to a good belay ledge. Despite some poo...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Broken Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the approach, Here the wall is shown in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...
That one short off width climb on the buttress left of Rock Lobster
That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...
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