Broken Tooth  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Page Views:  33,226. Good page? (2 likes)    Administrators:  Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  William McGehee on Oct 7, 2003 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Sun Mon Tue Wed Thu 66° | 46° 66° | 46° 73° | 54° 79° | 55° 79° | 55°

Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...

Description 

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There 

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

The Classics

Featured Route For Broken Tooth

Tooth Fairy 5.11-  UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth

Aesthetic and grueling offwidth in a clean flaring corner. Crux for bigger people will be the first 20 feet consisting of tight handstacks without knee locks. Get creative to move those hands up! From there it widens to #5, then #6 camalots for a ways to a handjam below a tight cave. Pulling into this cave is the other burly crux. Use a nut behind a chockstone (there's only one that isn't loose) so you don't step on your gear thrutching in. Then a bunch more #5 and #6. At...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...	It was cold at night, but great in the day!	That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...