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BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.
Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.
29 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
unnamed 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Midnight Oil 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Blue Sky Mining 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
The Incisor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Dental Floss Tycoon 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Unnamed short 11- 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Gold Crown 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Rock Lobster 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 115'
Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Heat Searcher 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Dentist Chair 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Mondo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Broken Tooth 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 100'
Inflictor 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Rhythm Method 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 55'
Unbelievable 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 90'
Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Gold Crown 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
#7 in the bloom book. Didn't look 120' from the ground to me. Start in a right facing .75 to 1 crack up through a roof and change corners. Pause for a rest in the pod. Continue up through another roof and into the offwidth (work the frog step). Power through one last section and keep your cool when you try to clip the anchors. Absolutely AWESOME route!!...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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