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BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.
Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.
27 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
Blue Sky Mining 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
The Incisor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Midnight Oil 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Dental Floss Tycoon 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Rock Lobster 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 115'
Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Heat Searcher 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Dentist Chair 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Mondo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Broken Tooth 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 100'
Inflictor 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Rhythm Method 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 55'
Unbelievable 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 90'
Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Biggie Smiles 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
A varied route, a boulder problem start, followed by and off-width section, then face climbing up to the final crux finger crack/layback. 2 ropes are needed, unless you have an 80 meter rope, which should work. ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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