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BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.
Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.
27 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
Blue Sky Mining 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
The Incisor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Midnight Oil 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Dental Floss Tycoon 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Rock Lobster 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, 115'
Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Heat Searcher 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Dentist Chair 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Mondo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Broken Tooth 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 100'
Inflictor 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Unbelievable 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 90'
Rhythm Method 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 55'
Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
Aesthetic and grueling offwidth in a clean flaring corner. Crux for bigger people will be the first 20 feet consisting of tight handstacks without knee locks. Get creative to move those hands up! From there it widens to #5, then #6 camalots for a ways to a handjam below a tight cave. Pulling into this cave is the other burly crux. Use a nut behind a chockstone (there's only one that isn't loose) so you don't step on your gear thrutching in. Then a bunch more #5 and #6. At...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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