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Elevation: 5,772 ft
GPS: 38.10072, -109.56618
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 70,739 total · 284/month
Shared By: William McGehee on Oct 6, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.

Getting There Suggest change

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.

34 Total Climbs

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Location: Broken Tooth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Broken Tooth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 63
Dental Floss Tycoon
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 77
Blue Sky Mining
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 52
Midnight Oil
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 217
unnamed classic hand crack aka G…
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 101
The Incisor
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 22
Tooth Fairy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 304
Rock Lobster
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 128
Polygrip
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 49
Heat Searcher
Trad 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 26
Dentist Chair
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 26
Mondo
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 96
Broken Tooth
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 21
Rhythm Method
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
Inflictor
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 46
Unbelievable
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dental Floss Tycoon
 63
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Blue Sky Mining
 77
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Midnight Oil
 52
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
unnamed classic hand crack…
 217
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
The Incisor
 101
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Tooth Fairy
 22
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Rock Lobster
 304
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Polygrip
 128
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Heat Searcher
 49
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Dentist Chair
 26
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Mondo
 26
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Broken Tooth
 96
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Rhythm Method
 21
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Inflictor
 81
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Unbelievable
 46
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Broken Tooth »

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