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Broken Tooth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles T 
Blue Sky Mining T 
Broken Tooth T 
Brown Baby Teeth T 
Chemotherapy T 
Dental Floss Tycoon T 
Dentist Chair T 
Gingivitis T 
Heat Searcher T 
Incisor, The T 
Inflictor T 
Midnight Oil T 
Mondo T 
Mushrooms With Hefner T 
Numbing the Wild T 
Polygrip T 
Rhythm Method T 
Rock Lobster T 
Root Canal T 
Snaggle Tooth T 
Terminal Fistula T 
Tooth Fairy T 
Tooth Pac T 
Unbelievable T 
Unnamed (Left side, Fingers in Tight Flare) T 
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown T 
Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack T 

Broken Tooth 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.10074, -109.56618 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 46,930
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: William McGehee on Oct 7, 2003
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It was cold at night, but great in the day!

Description 

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.


Getting There 

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.


Climbing Season


27 Total Routes


['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',6],['5.11',13],['5.12',8],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
Blue Sky Mining   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Incisor   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
unnamed classic hand crack aka Gold Crown   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Midnight Oil   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Dental Floss Tycoon   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Tooth Fairy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Unnamed short 11- w/ traverse to left crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   
Rock Lobster   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 115'   
Polygrip   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Heat Searcher   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Dentist Chair   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Mondo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Broken Tooth   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 100'   
Inflictor   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Rhythm Method   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 55'   
Unbelievable   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth

Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Dr. Mike starting the crux finger-stacking. I didn't take this photo, nor is it mine. I just put it on for the beta. My apologies Mike.

Rock Lobster 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
This route lies approximately 50' to the right of the leaning pillar that defines Brokentooth Wall at the top of the approach trail. Cupping hands for the first 80', with rests in four or five flares fairly evenly spaced after 50'. Narrows to fingers near the top for the crux. Traverse right, go up, then back left to avoid the .11b if necessary. Can be TR'd with two 60's but you have to get around the knot. Great route!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Broken Tooth
Photos of Broken Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the approach, Here the wall is shown in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...
That one short off width climb on the buttress left of Rock Lobster
That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...
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