It was cold at night, but great in the day!
BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.
Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.
Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.
Weather station 10.3 miles from here
27 Total Routes
['4 Stars',11],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
The Incisor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Mondo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Inflictor 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c UT
: Moab Area
: ... : Broken Tooth
Slightly hard than Rock Lobster, but way better. The Ruckman's guidebook says something about taping the right side of your harness for the finger layback section, but that's an exaggeration. The pitch begins with some tight hands and good feet that goes to a big ledge at the beginning of the killer finger layback section. Layback about forty feet of perfect fingers (yellow aliens), pull a thin hands bulge (crux), and finish with some thin hands....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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