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Broken Tooth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Biggie Smiles 
Blue Sky Mining 
Broken Tooth 
Brown Baby Teeth 
Chemotherapy 
Dental Floss Tycoon 
Dentist Chair 
Gingivitis 
Gold Crown 
Heat Searcher 
Incisor, The 
Inflictor 
Midnight Oil 
Mondo 
Mushrooms With Hefner 
Numbing the Wild 
Polygrip 
Rhythm Method 
Rock Lobster 
Root Canal 
Snaggle Tooth 
Terminal Fistula 
Tooth Fairy 
Tooth Pac 
Unbelievable 
unnamed 
Unnamed (Left side) 
unnamed 5.10/11 (?) 
Unnamed short 11- 

Broken Tooth 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 38.10074, -109.56618 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 44,462
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: William McGehee on Oct 7, 2003
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It was cold at night, but great in the day!

Description 

BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.


Getting There 

Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.

Park in the large dirt area adjacent to some VERY large rocks. The largest makes a good stargazing/cooking/sleeping spot incidentally. Take the obvious dirt trail on the East side of the dirt area. This takes you directly to the base of BrokenTooth Wall and immediately next to the Rain-Cave.


29 Total Routes


['4 Stars',13],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',7],['5.11',14],['5.12',8],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
unnamed   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Midnight Oil   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Blue Sky Mining   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Incisor   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   
Dental Floss Tycoon   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Tooth Fairy   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Unnamed short 11-   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 55'   
Gold Crown   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Rock Lobster   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 115'   
Polygrip   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Heat Searcher   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Dentist Chair   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Mondo   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Broken Tooth   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 100'   
Inflictor   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 110'   
Rhythm Method   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 55'   
Unbelievable   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Trad, 90'   
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth

Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Mal, making it look easy.

Gold Crown 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
#7 in the bloom book. Didn't look 120' from the ground to me. Start in a right facing .75 to 1 crack up through a roof and change corners. Pause for a rest in the pod. Continue up through another roof and into the offwidth (work the frog step). Power through one last section and keep your cool when you try to clip the anchors. Absolutely AWESOME route!!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For Broken Tooth
Photos of Broken Tooth Slideshow Add Photo
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the approach, Here the wall is shown in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
Broken Tooth wall from 3/4 of the way up the appro...
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in evening light. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2007.
Mike Morely hikes down from Broken Tooth wall in e...
That one short off width climb on the buttress left of Rock Lobster
That one short off width climb on the buttress lef...
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