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BrokenTooth is the Buttress/Wall that bisects the "canyon" JUST north of Catwall. Climbs here are splitter and sustained, ranging from 5.10-5.12+. One of the more notable features of the wall is a HUGE leaning block on the westernmost point of the wall. This also includes a natural cave/hall for those seeking shelter from the rain. The more popular cracks are thin, so bring lots of .25-2" cams.
Drive a little over 8 miles past Newspaper Rock on UT 211. Pass the intersection of 211 ands UT 104 by approximately 1.5 miles. Look carefully for a wire gate on the East side of the road that is fastened by a pair of hooks on a chain (typically easier to look for dirt on 211 from the camp-road). 2WD vehicles with clearance should be adequate, but don't forget to SHUT THE GATE!!! Drive less than a mile.
29 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Broken Tooth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Broken Tooth:
The Incisor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Blue Sky Mining 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
unnamed 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Midnight Oil 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Dental Floss Tycoon 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Unnamed short 11- 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Tooth Fairy 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Gold Crown 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Rock Lobster 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 115'
Polygrip 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Dentist Chair 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Heat Searcher 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Mondo 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Broken Tooth 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 100'
Inflictor 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Rhythm Method 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 55'
Unbelievable 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 90'
Featured Route For Broken Tooth
Heat Searcher 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a UT : Moab Area : ... : Broken Tooth
Heat Searcher is a phenominal climb at a cliff of phenominal climbs. It obviously receives less traffic than the other classics, perhaps because of the apparently chossy approach pitch, or perhaps just because there is an approach pitch, period. In any case, those who overlook this climb are missing out.Begin in the chimney behind the pillar just left of Rock Lobster.P1: Climb the loose chimney and then eventually up twin cracks on somewhat suspect rock to a good belay ledge. Despite some poo...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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