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Burning Buttress
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Broken Sling 
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Will To Power, The 

Broken Sling 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type: Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 367
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Jun 15, 2008
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Description 

A nice route that saves its crux for the top after you run out of gear options. Unlike most gear routes here, the crack stops at about 3/4 height. Make sure you use those horizontals to get more pro in before going for the top. Even so, a pitch from the top is a long ride!


Location 

Small corner between Happy Hands and Spiderwand.


Protection 

One of everything



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By Phoffmann
May 18, 2010

I took the whip at the top after finding nothing but mud. I managed to get a small steel nut in a small seam but it ripped as I flew past. The two equalized pieces in the horizontal below and an excellent belay kept me of the small ledge about 1/2 way up the route. Be aware that if your belayer is not on the ball it is possible to hit it hard.

By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Jul 2, 2010

Perhaps I chose a harder but better protected finish, but I didn't find any run that warranted an R rating. From the end of the corner I went pretty much straight up, almost to the top then traversed. Above the little ledge I stuffed a Forged Friend in a horizontal and did a hard(er than 10-) move to another nice slot that took a trucker Forgie, and then another hard move to stand up to the last ledge, getting an orange TCU about ankle height. Perhaps the top out there is sketch, but I traversed to the Happy Hands anchors.