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 ADVANCED
Near Tors: Lizard's Eye
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Rope T,TR 
Easy Reach T,TR 
Fin, The TR 
Handburger Crack T,TR 
Parks Highway T,TR 

Broken Rope 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Roman Dial 1982
Page Views: 119
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jun 10, 2013

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Description 

Starting just right of Park's Highway, behind a spruce tree, climb up shallow grooves and cracks directly to the base of the obvious offwidth crack. Protect this using a medium cam in a secondary crack inside the right edge of the OW. Pull the short OW roof using your best wide technique (also possible to lieback the deep secondary crack) to the lower angle squeeze chimney above. Exit out left under the summit block to an anchor shared with Park's Highway.

Protection 

Socks, long pants + long sleeves. Gear to 3" (optional 6" piece if you're willing to carry it this far), gear anchor + 1/4" bolt. Rap from slings, downclimb off the back side, or scramble to the bolted anchor atop The Fin and rappel from there.


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