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Broken Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Broken Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Crack Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Eulogy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Fit for Life S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Hung Jury T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Lichet or Leave It T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Momentum Operator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Muad'Dib S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	South Beach T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Sue's Song T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Tree Trimmer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Undercling T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Verdict, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	White Trash T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	7,800 ft
GPS:	39.9792, -105.4542 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	17,901 total · 70/month
Shared By:	Tony B on May 21, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) Details

FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!

2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.

USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.

From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….

W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.

Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.

K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.

K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:

Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.

“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”

Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.

“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.

After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.

The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.

Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.

It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.

For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.

From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.

The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.

See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….

Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.

Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…

Description

Broken Rock is a fairly good name for this crag. Cracks riddle its faces, and most of the route development is in these cracks. The rock is somewhat similar to that of Castle in quality, but has a different aspect (North and West) and much less traffic. The climbs are mostly short and on a low tier, so they get shade when the sun is low. Perhaps this contributes to the overall "wetter" feel of this crag, with a little more lichen, moss, and oh... guano than most normally popular crags. Were this cliff clean and not right next to Castle Rock, it would see a lot of traffic.

Getting off of the routes here can be done by fixed anchors on some routes, by traversing to the fixed anchors from other routes, and by a walk-off uphill then back down, from the rest. I have done the two "recommended" routes by stars in Rossiter's book, and found the moves to be 3-star moves on decent rock, at least partially ruined by guano. This is Momentum Operator Crack (11a, technical, solid, overhanging jam crack to the best bomb-bay in the canyon) and Crack Up (5.9, leaning, overhanging dihedral with a hand-to-fist crack). The other lines nearby seem to be similar.

L->R (may not be correct):

A. Lichet or Leave It, 10, 4, gear.

B. Undercling, 9 or 10, 2p, 200', gear.

C. Whimsey?, 11-, 1p, gear.

D. Cosmic Whimp Out?, 11-, 1p, gear.

E. Hung Jury, 9+ - 10- PG-13, 2p, 250, gear.

F. The Verdict, 9, 1p, 120', gear.

G. Tree Trimmer, 11, 1p, 50', bolts & gear.

H. Out to Pasture aka Momentus Fist Trainer, 10- or 11-, 1p, 60', gear.

I. Momentum Operator, 11-, 1p, 60', gear.

J. White Trash, 11, 1p, 65', bolts & gear.

K. Crack Up, 9, 1p, 60', gear.

L. Eulogy, 9+/10 PG-13, 1p, 70', gear.

M. Sue's Song, 10 PG-13, 1p, 60', gear.

N. Turkish Revenge?, 10, 1p, gear.

O. South Beach, 10-, 1p, 60', bolts.

P. Fit for Life, 12, 1p, 70', bolts & gear.

Q. Muad'Dib, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Getting There

Drive to Castle Rock and park. Go down the gravel road near Country Club Crack, where the road crosses the stream via a bridge. Walk over the bridge to the opposite side of the river (1 minute total, to here) and you are at Broken Rock. A majority of the routes are on the upper right-hand side, within 200 feet of the road. A few lie to the left.