Broken Mirror 5.12a R
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| Type: | Sport, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12a [details] |
| FA: | Bernd Zeugswetter, Andy Patterson |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | andy patterson on Mar 28, 2011 |
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Andy Patterson enters the lower crux of Broken Mir...
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Description Broken Mirror is a free variation to Mirror in the Bathroom, which was put up as an aid-route sometime in the 80's. Put simply: clean, fascinating, and exceptionally devious face-climbing with some pretty thrilling run-outs.
Long (for SB), sustained, and beautiful.
Location NW face of Gibraltar rock. To the right of T-Crack.
Protection 8 draws.
Andy Patterson, hoping he doesn't fall.
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| Comments on Broken Mirror |
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By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Mar 31, 2011
| Congrats, guys! Did you not replace the old buttonheads? That must be rather thrilling. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Dec 17, 2011
| We led on the original bolts, but they weren't buttonheads. Still, they could have been closer together! |
By Richard Shore
Feb 20, 2012
| Some really hard, really techy moves here. I'm coming back to this one, on top-rope of course! Not sure if I'd ever have the huevos to lead this rig. Can easily be TR'ed using the anchor bolts atop Self Reflection 5.11b/c. Rappel past the starting ledge/3-bolt anchor on Self Reflection to a two-bolt hanging belay another 40' down and slightly left. |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Mar 26, 2012
| From the "Hole-rest" on Broken Mirror, there seems to be a rather tempting line up and left, just waiting to be climbed. The prospective line follows the arc of those concoidal fractures to the right of T-Crack. It would eventually join up with the hand-traverse ledge in the middle of T-Crack. It would need a bolt, probably two. Someone check it out! |
By Nick Sullens
From: Hong Kong, Hong Kong
May 7, 2012
| The crux moves coming over the roof are super funky, Will Barnes and I had good fun on it after being shown the line by Andy. A bit gritty from lack of use... |
By andy patterson
Administrator
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 8, 2012
| Thanks for getting on this rig, Will and Nick. The only cure for grittiness is traffic. |
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