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Gemstone West
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Broken Ladders  
Christian Crack 
Fin Left, The 
Flail Out 
Gemstone 
Green Snake - P2 
Pair of 4s 
Seamingly Hard 
Shoots & Ladders 

Broken Ladders  

5.7

   
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
FA: ?? (Alam and Roump 1990)
Submitted By: Alam on Jul 15, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Broken Ladders from the top (P2 ) of shoots and la...

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Description 

This is a single pitch (100') on very nice solid rock with great gear. This could be considered a P3 extension to shoots and ladders, as it starts 25 feet from the top of P2 of shoots and ladders.

Belay in a notch between the wall and large block. Climb double crack for 10-15', then hand traverse on thin crack (crux?) for 15 ' to gain left facing dihedral. Climb this dihedral until it become a crack, flake system on face which finally disappears. Finish by climbing up into large blocks to a sling belay.


Location 

Located above shoots and Ladders - Gemstone West.

Rappel - we have always used 2 ropes, but it should be doable with a 65 m rope.


Protection 

All natural gear - thin to 3.5 inches.



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By Howard Snell
From: Belen, New Mexico
Oct 28, 2012

This is a really enjoyable climb. If you like Flake n Bake but wish it was a bit more challenging then Broken Ladders could be for you. The finger traverse looks thin from below, but it's a great finger crack and takes 0.3" to 0.5" pieces.