Broken Hearts WI5-6
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| Type: | Ice, Alpine, 7 pitches, 700 feet |
| Consensus: | WI5 [details] |
| FA: | Pitches 1-5: Todd Cozzens, Ric Miller (1988/89), Pitch 6: Stan Price, Jim Krudener (1992), Pitch 7: Stan Price, Aaron Huey (March, 2000) |
| Season: | South Facing, Best in Colder Temps |
| Submitted By: | Andrew Klein on Feb 1, 2007 |
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Stone on Pitch 3 Broken Hearts
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Description Broken Hearts has one of the more milder approaches in Cody. Allow 45 minutes. The gully is 3.4 miles from the Ishawooa Mesa Trailhead. Park by some cottonwood trees when you can see the first 2 pitches from the road. The route meanders in a gully and some short WI3 steps 5-20 feet high are encountered in between the main pitches, which are a short slog of 5-15 minutes. Pitches 6 & 7 (both WI6) are rarely formed. This is probably one of the longer ice routes in the lower 48 esp. if all pitches are in. Pitch 3 tends to be baked. In the 5th pitch amphitheatre the climb on the left is the Carotid Artery (M7 and/or WI6-FA Alex Lowe, Todd Cozzens, early 1990's) and the climb on the right, My Only Valentine, is the 5th pitch of Broken Hearts. Cheers!
P1: WI3
P2: WI3
P3: WI3+
P4: WI3
P5: WI5 (My Only Valentine)
P6: WI6
P7: WI6
Descent: Use V-Threads. Trees can be used to rap a few of the pitches. One can also walk-off from before the 5th pitch amphitheatre. Check out Doug's comment below for more info.
Protection Ice Screws, V-Threads for descent
On pitch 1 of Broken Hearts-photo by Stone Wells
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Chris on pitch 2 of Broken Hearts
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Heading up pitch 4 on Broken Hearts-photo by Stone...
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Pitch 5 of Broken Hearts-photo by Stone Wells
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Chris Thompson on the 5th pitch pillar of Broken H...
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Third pitch of Broken Hearts
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The Carotid Artery pitch, variation 5th pitch to B...
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The normal 5th pitch (aka My Only Valentine).
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Ted Lange on Pitch 5 of Broken Hearts, February 20...
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BETA PHOTO: Pitch 6 of Broken Hearts, February 2008. Plenty o...
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Aaron Mulkey tops out the 3rd pitch of Broken Hear...
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Starting Broken Hearts, p1 & p2 in view. Late Febr...
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On the dry portion of The Carotid Artery (P5 Varia...
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| Comments on Broken Hearts |
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By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Feb 22, 2013
CONDITION REPORT | First two pitches were completely sunbaked with a thick layer of garbage ice everywhere on Monday, Feb. 18th. Second pitch had a big window forming near the exit and was delaminating from the rock. Given how these pitches looked compared to other times I have done this route, I can't imagine that the top of the third pitch is in. |
By Doug Shepherd
Feb 26, 2007
| A quicker descent is to cut climbers left above the "fourth" pitch (before you enter the ampitheatre with two large pillars). Follow the cliff walls around for a ways, past another climb, until you reach a ridge which takes you right back down the gully.
It's a bit slippery, but faster than rappelling and downclimbing the first pitches of the climb.
There are fixed anchors climbers left of the "fifth" pitch which allow you to get down without dropping ice/rappelling on top of other climbers. As of Feb. 17th the sixth pitch was not touching. However conditions change quick on this climb, so check it out when you get into the valley. |
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