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 ADVANCED
SW Face Center (The Solarium)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Witness Stand S 
Alibi S 
Broken Hearted  S 
Fresh Step TR 
Out of Order S 
Remembering Marina  S 
Tim's Valentine  S 
Uppercut T 

Broken Hearted  

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines, Frank Bentwood & Al Sanderson, December 2009
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 690
Submitted By: Murf on Jan 28, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Broken Hearted (5.10c), Joshua Tree NP

Description 

A scrappy high step starts this route which is steeper and sharper than its immediate neighbors to the right. Fairly continuous climbing leads to the crux at the third bolt. After surmounting the headwall, the climbing becomes easier climbing a scoop up to the ledge. You can either cross to the anchors for Tim's Valentine , or climb through the next face (gear) to another anchor.

Location 

Two routes left of Tim's Valentine .

Protection 

5 bolts, a few pieces if climbing past the second headwall to anchors.


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 29, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route has really cleaned up over the past few years. What initially was a bit flakey and sharp now has clean smears and good edges. 5 bolts with the last exiting up and right toward to the Tim's Valentine anchor as listed or up and left past a bolt and up a block to optional anchor. No additonal gear necessary, just keep going... it's up there.