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 ADVANCED
Main Wall Left
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ball Buster TR 
Black Happy S 
Broken Heart T 
Cavity Search TR 
Cookie Monster TR 
Creature Comforts S 
Deep Penetration T,TR 
Devil Man T 
Evil Eye S 
Evil Traverse 
Garbage Can T,TR 
Good Son S 
Hands off the Crack S 
Little Jerry Seinfeld S 
Noteworthy T 
Tapped Out S 
Weak Sister S 

Broken Heart 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 20'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Greg Hart
Page Views: 826
Submitted By: Bill Olszewski on Feb 4, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Broken Heart, with the bolt line of Hands Off the ...

Parking listed elsewhere is on private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the obvious left-leaning crack to the right of Hands Off the Crack, and shares the same anchor. Start in the lower right-tending crack. The crux is getting established in the left-leaning crack. Pro here is very thin but not unreasonable. Follow the crack as it widens from fingertips to good hands with great pro. Very fun moderate crack and yet another rest for those throbbing fingertips. Walk off right to descend.

Protection 

Pro to 2", bolted anchor


Comments on Broken Heart Add Comment
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By Rough
Oct 9, 2009

FA Greg Hart
By Brandontyrrell
Mar 12, 2010

I thought this was a great climb, a must do