Broken Glass Traverse
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make moves out left to gain a small knob/crimp. Work you feet across some knobs then right to the gaston. High left foot and move up to an OK rounded hold. Match this and move up to a small long knob that has a good edge on the top then right to a rounded gaston jug at the top.
Downclimb is the steep ramp maybe 10 feet to the left.
When you first come to the boulders there will be a corridor through the first two. Go through this and up onto a rock to the left. You will see a large boulder sitting atop a pedestal with another boulder below and to the left. The problem is on the lower boulder and starts from a good head hieght edge near the right arete and moves left then up.
Pads and spotter
|Comments on Broken Glass Traverse
From: The 505
Mar 27, 2009
The Glass House is the name Whitbeck, Groth and I have used for this problem since the nineties. Nice problem.
The Glass House also refers to the lower portion of this klettergarten.
The Crystal Ship is the name of the upper portion that contains the fun knob problem, nice obvious slab, and narrow corridor.
From: ABQ, NM
Mar 27, 2009
I could have sworn Whitbeck told me it was the "broken" glass traverse because of how sharp some of teh holds are? but Glass House sounds good to me as well. It could have also been Kyu that told me the name.
|By Dave Wachter|
Sep 19, 2009
If this is the problem I'm thinking of (rating seems right), it's one of my favorite foothills problems. We started it on a good matched hold on the right blunt arete (almost beneath the big balanced boulder) --> low technical traverse left --> transition into the straight-up (and easier) climbing. Top out is easy but exciting.
|By Jeremy Aslaksen|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 6, 2010
All of the problems on this boulder are greatly enhanced by getting to the top of the HUGE balanced boulder to the right...just one move required...preferably with a cold beer in your pocket.