Same start as A.B.C. goes right to really positive iron deposit and goes up from there using left hand side pulls, as stab to the pinch from breakaway (using it the opposite way) and a thrutch for the top.
I was climbing this today and couldnt stick the pinch from the left hand crimp. so I locked off and went static and the next thing i knew i was on the ground with the crimp in my hand. It is now only the sloper, and i still sent. Excellent problem, fantastic movement.
Perhaps but it's a matter of like 4 inches and doesn't add anything to awkwardly match on the lowest hold to make an easy move to the left hand. Seems much more natural to start split and doesnt change the grade. Obviously thats in my opinion so take that for what it's worth.
It may be more natural, but I thought starting low on ABC was fine. Though, it certainly makes it easier to start at the second move of most problems. Regardless, I will have to get back out to gov. dodge to check out these new problems that have been going up.
Exactly! It makes MOST problems easier... The point here is that it doesn't make either of THESE problems easier. It does not add or subtract from the grade by starting in a more natural position as I have done here. The reason being it you are standing on a huge ledge... not sure this 'discrepancy' was worth pointing out and seems like you're just pointing something out to be negative. Good luck on your future trips to the dodge.
Not trying to be negative. Actually I was trying to figure out where ABC started, hence the question mark. When I did ABC, I spent 10 minutes trying to sit start to the left of the arete, it seemed to be the natural sit start. I ended up starting matched on the lower hold, to the right of the arete and this felt consistent with the grade.
However, starting at the second hold does make the problem easier. Maybe it doesn't change the grade, but it is still one less hand and foot move. Just my 2 cents. I am more of a sport climber and typically like longer problems, so I try to do a lower start whenever possible.
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Apr 14, 2009 rating: V6-7A
One of the reasons I like rock climbing is that there isn't a referee, telling me what the rules are. Maybe if any of us were sponsored this would matter in the slightest (well, at least one mp.com Gov Dodge page regular is sponsored, but I would guess nobody else is). It's easy to be misinterpreted online since comments are black and white and intent is not always clear from the content of your post. Regardless, Broken Dreams is what it is, a super cool line with good movement that is unique for the Dodge. Start it how you like, it's not a competition. Just be honest with yourself and your friends, if anyone asks. Send me a PM when you go out next Chris, if I'm not working I'm always down to head out there, esp. with a capable spotter. You too John. Peace.
By Remo From: Madison, WI Apr 29, 2009 rating: V5-6C
This is a fun problem, good work Sweaty. IMHO easier than A.B.C.
Glad u liked it dude! Interesting thoughts for sure. I thought it wad harder just cause I flashed ABC and this took me a bunch of goes. FA's are always harder though I suppose.
By Remo From: Madison, WI May 1, 2009 rating: V5-6C
Yeah dude, nice flash!
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI May 1, 2009 rating: V6-7A
I thought ABC was harder too but I think John makes it a lot easier for the rest of us by posting vids (which is cool). IME seeing a video (or someone else send in-person) before trying a problem makes it seem a lot easier. And yeah John, I think an FA always is harder than repeats. Esp. when you are not sure it will even go. Something psychological about it. Anyway, just random worthless internet musings.