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ABC Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alpine Bouldering Club (A.B.C.) 
Breakaway 
Broken Dreams 
Project ( We call it titty twister) 

Broken Dreams 

Hueco: V6- Font: 7A

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V6- Font: 7A [details]
FA: John Freaney
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,643
Submitted By: sweatpants on Apr 8, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Broken Dreams

Description 

Same start as A.B.C. goes right to really positive iron deposit and goes up from there using left hand side pulls, as stab to the pinch from breakaway (using it the opposite way) and a thrutch for the top.

video of the F.A. for a better idea.

Location 

Next to A.B.C.

Protection 

couple pads that continually slip down the hill.


Photos of Broken Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
R. Langlois staying strong.
R. Langlois staying strong.
Squeeze!!!
Squeeze!!!
Ellen cranking on BD.
Ellen cranking on BD.
Anthony making the move into the good side pull pi...
Anthony making the move into the good side pull pi...

Comments on Broken Dreams Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 1, 2009
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 8, 2009

I wasn't sure on the grade. It could just be a hard 6 but i hate giving something a slash grade so if people get after it and think it's a 6 i will change it straight away.

Figuring out the beta for this thing was a real pain in the ass and took us a long time and a lot of tries to get it all sussed out. Enjoy, it is a good bit of fun for sure
By TravisMelin
From: Roanoke, VA La Crosse, WI
Apr 8, 2009

Sweet video. Looks like a really cool problem with good movement. Cant you put up some FAs with shorter approaches?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 8, 2009

Look Trav. I can't control the magic. The magic just happens. However, If you just cut 45 degrees from barrel ridge and dont bother going up there and then over, it's a rather flat hike.

But from now on I will try to contain my magic to convenient places for you my friend :-)
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 8, 2009
rating: V5- 6C

Nice Sweaty. Looks like fun!
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 8, 2009
rating: V6- 7A

Reason to go get another tick bite!
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 8, 2009

thats it. i get woken up at 8 in the morning for that comment... weak :-)
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 8, 2009
rating: V6- 7A

Geez dude, 8am!!! Rise and shine!!! Good work on the sends and FA!
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 8, 2009

haha thanks bro
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 9, 2009
rating: V6- 7A

Very nice problem John.
By Kevlar
Apr 11, 2009

I was climbing this today and couldnt stick the pinch from the left hand crimp. so I locked off and went static and the next thing i knew i was on the ground with the crimp in my hand. It is now only the sloper, and i still sent. Excellent problem, fantastic movement.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 11, 2009

are u speaking of the large iron deposit crimp in the middle of the wall? no breaking giant holds, that is illegal... but it's still climbable so i forgive you. :-) glad you guys like it!
By Tony Brengosz
Apr 11, 2009
rating: V6 7A

Not that hold, it was about 6 inches to the right of that pinchy sloper thing in the crack out left
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 11, 2009
rating: V6- 7A

I know the crimp you busted well, I was using it for Titty Twister. TT just got harder, I guess. Such is life. I am not sure anyone else was using it for Broken Dreams...
By Kevlar
Apr 12, 2009

sorry.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 12, 2009
rating: V6- 7A

Don't be sorry dude!!! When I was working TT I was concerned the crimp wouldn't hold up to the abuse. I'm just glad you ended up on your back and not me LOL.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 13, 2009

ohh gotcha.
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Apr 14, 2009

Nice video, looks like you did a stand start though. I thought that ABC started matched up on the lowest hold?
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 14, 2009

Perhaps but it's a matter of like 4 inches and doesn't add anything to awkwardly match on the lowest hold to make an easy move to the left hand. Seems much more natural to start split and doesnt change the grade. Obviously thats in my opinion so take that for what it's worth.
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Apr 14, 2009

It may be more natural, but I thought starting low on ABC was fine. Though, it certainly makes it easier to start at the second move of most problems. Regardless, I will have to get back out to gov. dodge to check out these new problems that have been going up.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 14, 2009

Exactly! It makes MOST problems easier... The point here is that it doesn't make either of THESE problems easier. It does not add or subtract from the grade by starting in a more natural position as I have done here. The reason being it you are standing on a huge ledge... not sure this 'discrepancy' was worth pointing out and seems like you're just pointing something out to be negative. Good luck on your future trips to the dodge.
By ChrisFrayer
From: Platteville, Wi
Apr 14, 2009

Not trying to be negative. Actually I was trying to figure out where ABC started, hence the question mark. When I did ABC, I spent 10 minutes trying to sit start to the left of the arete, it seemed to be the natural sit start. I ended up starting matched on the lower hold, to the right of the arete and this felt consistent with the grade.

However, starting at the second hold does make the problem easier. Maybe it doesn't change the grade, but it is still one less hand and foot move. Just my 2 cents. I am more of a sport climber and typically like longer problems, so I try to do a lower start whenever possible.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 14, 2009
rating: V6- 7A

One of the reasons I like rock climbing is that there isn't a referee, telling me what the rules are. Maybe if any of us were sponsored this would matter in the slightest (well, at least one mp.com Gov Dodge page regular is sponsored, but I would guess nobody else is). It's easy to be misinterpreted online since comments are black and white and intent is not always clear from the content of your post. Regardless, Broken Dreams is what it is, a super cool line with good movement that is unique for the Dodge. Start it how you like, it's not a competition. Just be honest with yourself and your friends, if anyone asks. Send me a PM when you go out next Chris, if I'm not working I'm always down to head out there, esp. with a capable spotter. You too John. Peace.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Apr 29, 2009
rating: V5- 6C

This is a fun problem, good work Sweaty. IMHO easier than A.B.C.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 29, 2009

Glad u liked it dude! Interesting thoughts for sure. I thought it wad harder just cause I flashed ABC and this took me a bunch of goes. FA's are always harder though I suppose.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 1, 2009
rating: V5- 6C

Yeah dude, nice flash!
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 1, 2009
rating: V6- 7A

I thought ABC was harder too but I think John makes it a lot easier for the rest of us by posting vids (which is cool). IME seeing a video (or someone else send in-person) before trying a problem makes it seem a lot easier. And yeah John, I think an FA always is harder than repeats. Esp. when you are not sure it will even go. Something psychological about it. Anyway, just random worthless internet musings.