Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dreamcatcher Tower
Select Route:
Broken Dreams T 

Broken Dreams 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 400', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2 [details]
FA: Paul and Andy Ross, Cameron Burns. 7th Nov 2005
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 1,454
Submitted By: USBRIT on Jan 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dreamspeaker Tower as seen from the start of Dream...

Description 

The route up Dreamcatcher climbs the north face up the obvious crack line. For reasons such as weather, time, gear problems, etc. the ascent took three attempts over a period of a year. On the first two Andy Ross led the first and third pitch, Paul Ross the second, and then with great support from Mr Cam Burns, Ross eventually led the long awaited final pitch to the summit. Starts just right of a massive chimney up a short slab to enter the crack system.There are two ways to approach the tower from the rim or the four wheel drive up the canyon.

P1). Up the slab past two bolts, then follow the crack free and aid to double anchors. 130', 5.9 C2.
P2). Slightly overhanging thin cracks with intermittent bolts to double anchors. 70', 5.8 C2.
P3). Climb the overhanging thin crack for 25', and then the angle eases up a wide crack to double anchors on a large ledge. 100', 5.8+ C2.
P4). Move the belay right 25' to natural anchors.(Register here as there was no place to stash on the summit ) Traverse right past a bolt for about 30', then up a short bolt ladder to the summit. Rap and belay anchors to the left. 60', 5.8 C1.

Descent: Rap the route, taking care on overhanging sections.


Protection 

Three sets of Cams from Aliens to two #5 Friends and One #6 Friend.Stoppers. Two 60m ropes.



Photos of Broken Dreams Slideshow Add Photo
Paul on the steep pitch two of Broken Dreams.
Paul on the steep pitch two of Broken Dreams.
Paul belayed by Andy on pitch two of Broken Dreams, Dreamspeaker Tower
Paul belayed by Andy on pitch two of Broken Dreams...
Andy starting pitch three Broken Dreams.
Andy starting pitch three Broken Dreams.
More of first pitch...
More of first pitch...
Paul on the last pitch of Broken Dreams
Paul on the last pitch of Broken Dreams
Two tiny figures of Ross and Burns on the summit of Dreamcatcher after the FA. Dreamspeaker on the far right. The central tower is still unclimbed ...
Two tiny figures of Ross and Burns on the summit o...
The Right Honourable Cameron Burns Esq on the Summit of Dreamcatcher Tower with Dreamspeaker Tower and Arch Canyon in the background
The Right Honourable Cameron Burns Esq on the Summ...
Why lazy buggas sport climb !!
Why lazy buggas sport climb !!
Lads on top . Cam Burns and Paul Ross on the Summit Of Dreamcatcher Tower November 2005.
Lads on top . Cam Burns and Paul Ross on the Summi...
View up Arch Canyon
View up Arch Canyon
Comments on Broken Dreams Add Comment
Show which comments
By Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Jun 19, 2007

Paul, you are a slave-driver.
Best,
Cam

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Dec 9, 2012

No know second ascent as of 2012

By Ben Kiessel
Feb 7, 2013

-Bill and I climbed this 2/3/2013.
-Good route guys! Great view from the top!
-I was a little confused as to why the register was a pitch from the top until we got up there and realized there was nowhere to put it.
-We hiked in from the rim on the south side of the towers. We fixed a line on the way in and then found a way to hike out on the way out. 2 hrs in and 2 hrs out. I'm not super stoked to take this approach again.

By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
May 7, 2013

Congrats Ben and greetings from the UK.. Glad you had fun .. Cheers Paul