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 ADVANCED
Siberia
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Bull with Gas 
Bazooka, The 
Ben Scabbyface 
Broken Dreams 
Child Proof 
Cross-Roads Finish 
Dos Chi Chis 
Gandy 
George's Route (aka Binder) 
Glen's Crack 
Hollywood Rattlesnake 
Irish Toothache 
Jack 
Kublai Corner 
Leon Redbone 
Love Gas 
Old Hornington 
Original Route (aka Jake Off) 
Randy 
Showers With Dad 
Toby 
Weo 
Yasmine Bleeth 
Unsorted Routes:

Broken Dreams 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: (TR) Jon Regelbrugge, Brian Gengler, 2/92 (Lead) Wally Barker, 12/96.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 415
Submitted By: Randy on Oct 13, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The Kamchatka Block, showing Broken Dreams, 11b. C...

Description 

This attractive crack climb lies on the north facing Kamchatka Block on the far right side of the Siberian Corridor. The Kamchatka Block is actually the north face of the summit block of Buttress 4 of East Siberia [Dos Chi Chis lies on the south face of Buttress 2]. In the photo, it is the "back-side" of the shaded triangular block to the right of the "pointer" [the 2nd to the right summit block].

Probably the best (most fun) way to get to the route would be (1) To climb George's Route [route 476] with the Cross-Roads Finish (route 477] on Buttress 3 and walk down the back slab and to your right [this is the gap just right of the "pointer" in the photo]; or (2) Climb Toby [route 481] and scramble up and to the right then around left to the base of the the Kamchatka Block.

This route is easily distinguished as a thin left leaning crack in a very oblique left facing corner on steep orangish rock. The route starts immediately behind a large pine tree. It is presumed the name is derived from the somewhat loose rock found near the top of the crack.

Well worth doing if you are climbing one of the routes on the main East Siberia face. If the last bit of the crack did not have several loose holds, this would be a 3+ of 5 star route; but probably 2 of 5.


Protection 

Thin to 2 inches.



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