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Broken Dreams
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | (TR) Jon Regelbrugge, Brian Gengler, 2/92 (Lead) Wally Barker, 12/96. |
Page Views: | 1,414 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Randy on Oct 12, 2004 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This attractive crack climb lies on the north facing Kamchatka Block on the far right side of the Siberian Corridor. The Kamchatka Block is actually the north face of the summit block of Buttress 4 of East Siberia [Dos Chi Chis lies on the south face of Buttress 2]. In the photo, it is the "back-side" of the shaded triangular block to the right of the "pointer" [the 2nd to the right summit block].
Probably the best (most fun) way to get to the route would be (1) To climb George's Route [route 476] with the Cross-Roads Finish (route 477] on Buttress 3 and walk down the back slab and to your right [this is the gap just right of the "pointer" in the photo]; or (2) Climb Toby [route 481] and scramble up and to the right then around left to the base of the the Kamchatka Block.
This route is easily distinguished as a thin left leaning crack in a very oblique left facing corner on steep orangish rock. The route starts immediately behind a large pine tree. It is presumed the name is derived from the somewhat loose rock found near the top of the crack.
Well worth doing if you are climbing one of the routes on the main East Siberia face. If the last bit of the crack did not have several loose holds, this would be a 3+ of 5 star route; but probably 2 of 5.
Probably the best (most fun) way to get to the route would be (1) To climb George's Route [route 476] with the Cross-Roads Finish (route 477] on Buttress 3 and walk down the back slab and to your right [this is the gap just right of the "pointer" in the photo]; or (2) Climb Toby [route 481] and scramble up and to the right then around left to the base of the the Kamchatka Block.
This route is easily distinguished as a thin left leaning crack in a very oblique left facing corner on steep orangish rock. The route starts immediately behind a large pine tree. It is presumed the name is derived from the somewhat loose rock found near the top of the crack.
Well worth doing if you are climbing one of the routes on the main East Siberia face. If the last bit of the crack did not have several loose holds, this would be a 3+ of 5 star route; but probably 2 of 5.
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