|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA:||Wright, Montagu, Tarrant, ABS, June 2001|
|Submitted By:||Richard M. Wright on Jun 18, 2001|
|Comments on Broken Arrow||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 20, 2001
|I don't know what is going on with all of these self rightous SSV climbers. I did Broken Arrow this weekend (8/19) and I thought it was one of the most elegant one pitch climbs I have ever done. - Brian Walsh|
By Cale Farnham
Aug 14, 2009
|Did this yesterday with Scotty, Phil and Erin. Killer line thought there was two cruxes one right before the shallow seam and right at the roof making the move to the nice left jug a couple feet above the last bolt! Definitely a must do line!!|
Nov 2, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
|Pretty good route. A couple bolts are in awkward spots on the upper part, which is a little unfortunate. It works out ok, but would definitely favor a redpoint effort versus an onsight effort, which I kind of don't agree with. The onsight effort requires going one or two moves past the best stances to be able to clip. It would definitely be substantially easier with prehung draws.|
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 22, 2012
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Maybe it is a height thing - I thought the clips were OK but were meant to be clipped from a high stance rather than pulling a lot of rope up. Great climb that requires the leader to milk the good holds for rests and maintain good footwork. Bullet rock.
Just when you think it is over - there is a final surprise.
Too bad it isn't a longer climb and a nicer setting, or it would be 4-star. 3-star as it is.