Broken Arrow 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11 [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare, Claire Mearns, 2000 |
| Submitted By: | Anonymous Coward on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Placing some small cams to get to the first bolt.....
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Description Climb just right of Shadow of a Hangdog (aka Fat Fingers), following the bolt line just left of the dihedral with the large crack. Follow a thin crack up and right to a small roof. Clip, then make a sweet dynamic move to a good hold. It's unclear whether the route uses the opposite face to stem off of; we did.
Protection 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Micro cams or small stoppers would be a good idea for the lower half of the route.
By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
Feb 10, 2008
| This description is a little misleading. The route starts out as a crack climb for the first 25 feet at least. Gear is required! When the climb gets steeper at the top, there are three closely spaced bolts. The bolted line is a bit contrived to me; following the strength of the rock rather than the obvious weakness. It seemed much easier to move right and join "Stony Middleton" rather than climb a few desperate face moves out of character with the rest of the route. |
By Laura Pyle
From: Evergreen, CO
May 24, 2009
| I thought it was a nice route. If you traverse slightly right, but not all the way to Stony Middleton, the line is pretty aesthetic. |
By Mark Roth
From: Boulder
Jan 5, 2010
| This would be 3 stars if the other wall wasn't there. It's annoying trying to avoid the stem. But there are really fun, well protected moves....
And you don't need anything bigger than a purple Camalot (and I don't mean #5). |
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