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West Face
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Way Layed 
Wrong Way (direct start to One Way Sunset) 

Brokedown Palace 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 2,302
Submitted By: Eric Sutton on Aug 18, 2002
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Description 

"Brokedown Palace" follows the line out the right side of the big pentagonal roof in the middle of the west face. The second pitch is the crux pitch and offers some of the best hard,steep corner and roof climbing on the tower,it is very well protected with small nuts and cams. The third pitch is beautiful 5.11c crack climbing. The first pitch is not stellar at all but a way to get to the next ones, and I never did the last pitch. The end of the third pitch had no fixed anchors when I climbed it.


Protection 

Small nuts to 2" cams



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By Christian B. Baird
Mar 27, 2007

Wow I followed eric sutton on this
A serious lesson in smearing and style
No joke tips and lack of foot holds
but excellent small stoppers And r.p.s
shear sickness sutton, you rule

By Sean Nelb
From: Grand Junction, CO
May 7, 2011

This route called to me like no other on the Tower. It is an excellent line out a huge roof in the middle of the West face. It is sustained and thin, with lots of small nuts and insecure stances as you make your way to the roof. Place some cams and gun it for the lip, following another beautiful fingercrack to the anchors.