Smith's version of Stolen Chimney on Ancient Art.Easy climbing to an airy summit makes for a worthy mini adventure.Pitch 1: What used to be a 5.6 solo has now been bolted. Climb a short steep section to a slab above and end at a bolted anchor or continue to the tunnel.Pitch 2: Continue up to a tunnel through the formation, climb through the tunnel and turn right. Follow a run out groove (couple of bolts) to the shoulder above and belay at a bolted anchor. 5.3-5.6Pitch 3: The goods. Climb easy ro...[more]Browse More Classics in OR
i haven't done this route, but it's called, pouches 11c.
By corvegas From: the depths of oregon May 15, 2006
That's not really Beth Rodden's new 5.14. That climb is actually called The Great Roof, which was climbed on aid in 1966 with many fewer bolts. Ethics at Smith were lost and bolts were added, not by Beth. This brought down the adventure level of a route that could be enjoyed by more people, still into the art of placing protection. Those bolts should be chopped. It should be freed when the natural protection readily available on that climb is used.
If rappelling from the chains on the Cave Route side of the summit: (the first set encountered while on that route) thread your ropes through the higher rap ring on the left bolt to avoid a heinously difficult rope pull/stuck rope.