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The Optimator
Routes Sorted
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"Unnamed 5.11" - OW right of Anunnaki pillar T 
90 proof T 
Annunaki T 
Backside Luge T 
Baroque T 
Beer Run T 
Bow Flex T 
Brodie Machine T 
Casey's Route T 
Charlie's Pillar T 
Chick Flick T 
Choss Eliminate TR 
Ditch 'em T 
Double Bock T 
Gunning For Gonzo T 
Hayutake T 
Hefe Weissen T 
Jews On Crack T 
Jive Crack T 
Kitchen Sink T 
Lady Pillar T 
Long Island Iced Ted T 
Miller Genuine Draft T 
Mudslide T 
Neat T 
Optimator T 
Pat's Blue Ribbon T 
Ram Implosion Wing T 
Road Soda T 
Sardikar T 
Season of the Worm, The T 
Soul Fire T 
St. Pauli Girl T 
Two Scoops T 
Unknown T 
Unnamed 11+ T 
Unsorted Routes:

Brodie Machine 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
Page Views: 1,880
Submitted By: Paul Hunnicutt on Nov 27, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Brodie Machine follows the crack that starts finge...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The bottom crux is thin fingers, but easier if you move left and work a sidepull on the left of the pillar. The mid section is a bit sandy. Most of the time your feet seem to be on the face and not in the crack. Someone looking for a short, fun, non-splitter crack will enjoy this climb and it's a good intro lead for newbie Indian Creek climbers.


On the left face of Charlie's Pillar climb a left, then right-leaning varied fingers-to-hands crack - ending at the same anchors for Charlie's Pillar. Easy to TR after doing Charlie's Pillar and a good quick warm up for the cliff.


Doubles .4-#2 Camalot - though it is short and you probably won't need all of them. #3 is optional.

Photos of Brodie Machine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on Broadie Machine.
Climber on Broadie Machine.

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By m-earle
From: USA
Feb 21, 2007

For the record, this climb is not actually called "Brodie Machine." I was at the Optimator wall in nov 06, and a friend i was with sratched "Brodie Machine" into a rock.

Edit: sorry, what i meant to say was the plaque at the base is in fact a "retro plaque." As in, the name "brodie machine" was not given by the FA.
By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Feb 24, 2007

It looked exactly like a plaque, therefore I assumed it was the name of the climb. It also isn't in the guidebook and wasn't on MP yet. If anyone knows the "true" name of this climb please inform us. Why did he scratch Brodie Machine in a rock?
By Josh Gross
Apr 24, 2008

Charlies Pillar,
FA Josh Gross we climbed both the chimney and the short s splitter. and placed the anchor years ago.
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 24, 2008

So is this the same route already posted as Charlie's Pillar, or a variation? How do you want it named Josh?

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