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Broadway 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: J. Reppy, G. Young, F. Carey 1958
Page Views: 3,668
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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The Skull and Bones block - Broadway is the crack ...

Description 


BEWARE OF COPPERHEAD AT TOP OF CLIMB



Near the right end of the face is a huge block forming a roof about 50' up. Broadway goes up the crack to the right edge of the block.

This is one of the best routes on the cliff - continuous 5.7 - 5.8 climbing with good pro if you know how to place it.



The block that marks the roof is the Skull and Bones block - named after the secret society at nearby Yale University.

Protection 

Mostly medium and small wires and cams. This route has seen a number of spectacular leader falls so place pro when you can.


Photos of Broadway Slideshow Add Photo
What copperhead on top of Broadway?
What copperhead on top of Broadway?
At the first crux go to the left.  The undercling on the left sets you up much better...
BETA PHOTO: At the first crux go to the left. The undercling ...
Seconding Broadway (the lower climber).  The higher climber is TRing <a href='/v/skull-and-bones/107643966'>Skull and Bones</a>.
BETA PHOTO: Seconding Broadway (the lower climber). The highe...
No pro?  Jesse has 11 pieces under the block.
No pro? Jesse has 11 pieces under the block.

Comments on Broadway Add Comment
Show which comments
By Marc H
From: Lafayette, CO
Feb 16, 2008
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

IMO, the crux is higher than the author indicated. There's also a PG-13 section near the 1/3 or 1/2-way mark of this route.
By John Peterson
Feb 17, 2008

This route is consistant enough that there are plenty of cruxes to go around- the higher one is about the same as the one below the roof but I find it easier to protect so I'm more relaxed. But I'll definitely argue about the PG-13 thing. There's gear just about everywhere on this route if you're clever enough to find it and have the right stuff on your rack. Traprock is incredibly featured and with patience you can get decent gear in all sorts of unlikely places. But often this is an issue of having just the right RP or tiny cam.

This particular route has been the scene of many spectacular falls by climbers unfamiliar with traprock. Many years ago, a visiting "5.10 is just a warmup" climber proceeded to charge up this route to a point just below the roof placing only a single micro cam along the way - suddenly he was flying off and missed cratering by just a few feet. Fortunately that one tiny cam turned out to be OK. On his second effort, he managed to find a lot of gear he had overlooked on the first attempt and had something in about every 3 feet through the crux section.

The real problem is that it's so tiring to hang and place the gear that doing this route with a PG rating makes it a lot harder than at a PG-13 or R rating.
By CODJOL
Nov 11, 2008

The crux on this one can be a little tricky, but it's mostly just a "getting over your nerves" move. It is just before the roof of Skull and bones, as I remember, the final move. The roof is a little high and you're on an undercling hold. Just trust the hold and power up to the roof - it's a solid hold up there. After the crux... enjoy the view on top of Skull and Bones - it's pretty much a staircase from there.
By Eric G.
Jul 8, 2012

I thought the pro was awful up to the 1/3 point. You're putting a lot of faith in a small nut in crappy traprock. PG-13.
By Alex Charmoz
From: Fairfield, CT
Apr 27, 2013

People who complain of nowhere to put gear aren't looking hard enough. This climb eats it the whole way.
By CTdave
From: Wallingford, CT
Aug 15, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I dont know about PG-13. PG unless you have the right stuff on your rack which of course I didn't. G if you've got some smaller cams or maybe tricams
By Kurtz
Jun 1, 2014

There's plenty o' pro on the bottom of this route. Look at this Photo. Eleven pieces BELOW the block. Granted they're mostly small nuts and cams, but all good.