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Routes in Southwest Alcove
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Ballet of the Bulge S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Britney's Spear S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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County Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Inyerbuttkwa S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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She's A Daisy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Sport, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Bryan Beavers |
| Page Views: | 2,271 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Martinuzzi on Sep 21, 2008 |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
Scramble up the gully from the base of Inyerbuttkwa via the path of least resistance to 2 bolts that can serve as a belay anchor. A lead fall would yank your belayer around some pretty uncomfortable terrain if s/he isn't clipped in.
Climb up through some blocky terrain (5.7-5.9) through the first three bolts to gain the left face of the striking, orange prow seen from the alcove. Move up on some tiny, lichen-y holds (5.10/11) to a crux that starts just beneath the 2nd to last bolt.
At this point, I did a bit of 'aid' climbing to reach around the corner of the arete into a wide fissure that offered some usable holds. The climbing was not at all obvious, and harder than any of main wall P1s or Ballet of the Bulge. Definitely 11-something, possibly harder, and also possible to cheat your way around, as I did.
Clip the last bolt as the terrain eases and top out! It is a sport climb, but it's sort of epic. Whether or not you agree with that, the good climbing, neat feature, and fun topout make for an excellent route.
Climb up through some blocky terrain (5.7-5.9) through the first three bolts to gain the left face of the striking, orange prow seen from the alcove. Move up on some tiny, lichen-y holds (5.10/11) to a crux that starts just beneath the 2nd to last bolt.
At this point, I did a bit of 'aid' climbing to reach around the corner of the arete into a wide fissure that offered some usable holds. The climbing was not at all obvious, and harder than any of main wall P1s or Ballet of the Bulge. Definitely 11-something, possibly harder, and also possible to cheat your way around, as I did.
Clip the last bolt as the terrain eases and top out! It is a sport climb, but it's sort of epic. Whether or not you agree with that, the good climbing, neat feature, and fun topout make for an excellent route.
Location
This line climbs the left face of the prow visible way up the gully from Inyerbuttkwa or Ballet of the Bulge. The 2-bolt 'belay anchor' mentioned above is ~15' down and slightly left of the base of the prow, as seen from the alcove.
This feature is also visible from the Palace pull-out, and looks pretty stunning from there; a large, clean, orange prow jutting out of the choss-pile behind Crystal, upper right in the photo. The line of bolts ascends the shadowy left face.
This feature is also visible from the Palace pull-out, and looks pretty stunning from there; a large, clean, orange prow jutting out of the choss-pile behind Crystal, upper right in the photo. The line of bolts ascends the shadowy left face.
Protection
9 bolts.
Two options for anchors - top out and belay from the 3-bolt set-up on top of the pillar, or break right at the 2nd to last bolt and make a reach for the fat Metolius rap bolts on the downhill face of the prow.
I topped out and belayed from the 3-bolt anchor, but rappelled off from the 2 bolts on the orange face with one 60m rope, and then walked off and around back to the alcove. Rapping from the 3-bolt setup off the overhanging face could finish with your rope stuck in a rotten crack at the edge of the prow.
Alternately, one could be lowered or rappel from the 3-bolt setup down the route to the belay anchors.
Two options for anchors - top out and belay from the 3-bolt set-up on top of the pillar, or break right at the 2nd to last bolt and make a reach for the fat Metolius rap bolts on the downhill face of the prow.
I topped out and belayed from the 3-bolt anchor, but rappelled off from the 2 bolts on the orange face with one 60m rope, and then walked off and around back to the alcove. Rapping from the 3-bolt setup off the overhanging face could finish with your rope stuck in a rotten crack at the edge of the prow.
Alternately, one could be lowered or rappel from the 3-bolt setup down the route to the belay anchors.
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