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British Columbia  


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Location: 49.2777, -123.1334 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,620,572
Administrator: Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 15, 2007
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Snowpatch Spire at sunrise.

Description 

Canada's westernmost province is very fortunate to have some of the mildest climates in the country combined with some of the best rock and mountains around. Marquee areas like Squamish, Skaha and the Bugaboos are only the tip of the iceberg.

Getting There 

Vancouver is easily accessed by air from anywhere and is about three or four hours drive from Seattle. Vancouver puts you within two hours drive of vast amounts of climbing, centered on but not limited to Squamish.

Penticton, in the interior, is about a five hour drive from Vancouver and can be accessed by air either directly or by flying to nearby Kelowna. Skaha is main destination here, but there are other quality locations in the area.

The coastal range is accessed, with difficulty from Vancouver, or by boat or plane.

Vancouver Island, which is home to some good climbing, fine mountaineering, and great trails (like the West Coast Trail) can be reached by ferry from Vancouver, or by flying to the Victoria International Airport.

The more recently developed areas on the Sunshine Coast such as the Eldred Valley are accessed by ferry from Vancouver. There appears to be a lot of potential in this area for huge first ascents.

For the Rockies, which are closer to the border with Alberta, access for out-of-towners is often via Calgary, although the drive can be done from from Vancouver in seven to ten hours depending on your destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.0 miles from here

2,349 Total Routes

['4 Stars',293],['3 Stars',907],['2 Stars',851],['1 Star',246],['Bomb',22]
['<=5.6',99],['5.7',79],['5.8',155],['5.9',193],['5.10',501],['5.11',281],['5.12',155],['5.13',35],['>=5.14',8],['',0],['<=V1',149],['V2-3',312],['V4-5',190],['V6-7',97],['V8-9',71],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',21],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for British Columbia:
West Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Pigeon Spire
Northwest Ridge   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X     Trad, Alpine, 2400'   Selkirk Mountains : Mount Sir Donald
North East Ridge   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1500'   The Bugaboos : Bugaboo Spire
Klahanie Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
Skywalker   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 5 pitches, 300'   Squamish : Shannon Falls
Diedre   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches   The Chief : The Apron
Northeast Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Alpine, 25 pitches   Western Chilliwack Range : Mt. Slesse
Penny Lane   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Snake   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 5 pitches   The Chief : The Apron
Flying Circus   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   The Smoke Bluffs : Neat and Cool
Rock On   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   The Chief : The Apron
McTech Arete   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 500'   The Bugaboos : Crescent Spire
Angel's Crest   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 13 pitches   The Chief : The Sheriff's Badge
Beckey-Chouinard   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 15 pitches, 2000'   Howser Towers : South Howser Tower
Exasperator   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   The Chief : Grand Wall Base Area
The Grand Wall   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0     Trad, Aid, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Chief : Grand Wall Area
Sunshine Crack   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 11 pitches, 900'   The Bugaboos : Snowpatch Spire
Crime Of The Century   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   The Smoke Bluffs : Penny Lane
Freeway   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 11 pitches   The Chief : The Dihedrals
University Wall   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 8 pitches, 900'   The Chief : Grand Wall Area
Browse More Classics in British Columbia

Featured Route For British Columbia
Crux 4th pitch.

Paddle Flake Direct 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  North America : Canada : ... : Crescent Spire
This is a fun route on really good quality rock and all the pitches are rated 5.10 according to the book with the crux coming on the 4th pitch.P1: Start about 10' to the left of a large left facing dihedral and follow finger cracks up the face. Two overhangs are encountered on this pitch which are bypassed by climbing left around the first one and right around the second. Belay just above the second overhang at a small stance.P2: Follow cracks and face climbing to a steeper upper wall and be...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of British Columbia Slideshow Add Photo
The Emperor Face and North Face of Mt. Robson, jus...
BETA PHOTO: The Emperor Face and North Face of Mt. Robson, jus...
The South Face of Mt Waddington, June 2000.
The South Face of Mt Waddington, June 2000.
Looking up at the Joffre formation from the Joffre...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at the Joffre formation from the Joffre...
Garibaldi Mountain from the Chief.
Garibaldi Mountain from the Chief.
The Sky Pilot Group from the Chief.  Can someone c...
The Sky Pilot Group from the Chief. Can someone c...
Joffre Formation looking mighty fine. Beautiful hi...
Joffre Formation looking mighty fine. Beautiful hi...

Comments on British Columbia Add Comment
Show which comments
By Peter Winter
Feb 18, 2010
Climbers' Access Society of B.C. www.access-society.ca
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Sep 23, 2011
The climbing beta on this map is a mile wide and a...
The climbing beta on this map is a mile wide and an inch deep. Please use the site search function and map names to get more.

Photos by Scott Visscher
Photos by Scott Visscher

The Blarney Stone is only eight kilometer outside British Columbia. I added it to create more artistic balance for the map. Not much else up in northern BC to interest rock climbers.

Also, the American Alpine Journal reported a different name in 2013. Neither the 2013 party nor the locals in Haines have actually climbed it. However, the name Blarney Stone has used by Alaskan climbers for about three decades. Yes, I am both correcting the AAJ (sorry) and giving away highly classified information to my fellow dreamers (unclimbed wall on an unclimbed mountain).
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 23, 2013
Not to contradict Peter Spindloe (who, as you may note, lives NORTH of Vancouver) regarding flying into Vancouver and exploring British Columbia from there, but save yourself a lot headache and bother by avoiding Vancouver, BC altogether. Fly into Bellingham, WA, fill up your gas tank at Costco, and take Hwy. 1 east around Vancover. Vancouver is congested, there are "red light" cameras everywhere, and the citizens are rude (sorry, not all, just too many). We loved BC and everyone outside of Vancouver was helpful and friendly. Join the Access Society of BC and the Squamish Access Society. These great organizations help to keep our crags open to climbers!
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