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Lower Mount Scott
Routes Sorted
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Blank Check S 
Brirthday Boy T 
Brush Hog T 
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Final Exit S 
Full Cavity Search T 
High Anxiety T 
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Mr. Clean T 
Pablo T 
Repeat After Me S 
Sex Talk TR 
Slopey Slappy 
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Unsorted Routes:

Brirthday Boy 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown (Contact me if you know who did the first accent)
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 696
Submitted By: Daniel S on Mar 4, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Picture shows Birthday Boy (1), High Anxiety (2), ...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

(Edited to reflect commentator views.) A clean, and very steep 5.6 crack/face climb using the crack for protection for the first 30 ft. The rock is solid "for first 30 ft"(with the exception of a hold 5 Ft off the deck) and protects easily for the first 30 ft. Not a great climb to learn Trad on even though it has a 5.6 rating. The easier (<5.5), but chossy dirty ledge climbing at the top is more difficult to protect. The crux is about 10 feet off the ground. Protect early to avoid sliding down the slab at the base. Note-one of the first holds starting out the climb is getting loose and may fall off soon. Use caution.

Location 

Climb the crack about 15 to the left of High Anxiety.

Protection 

Nut, hexes, and cams to 2-3 inches. Trad anchor (bring webbing approximately 10 Ft to sling boulder) or use High Anxiety anchors with some rope drag.


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By furrymurry
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 8, 2007

The route is neither great, nor clean, I'm not surprised it isn't a classic. Good climbing for about thirty feet, then it becomes a series of dirty ledges.
By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 28, 2008

I agree with you Murry of Furry-ness. Clean down low, then choss fest up top.
By Bracken
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 2, 2009

I'm with the other commenters on this one. Clean, fun, and takes gear nicely for the first 30 feet. After that, it's dirty, ledgy, and gear becomes a bit more challenging. A #2 Camalot was nice in the undercling near the top. I have to disagree that it's a good route for a beginner to learn on.