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Brinton's Buttress
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Berkeley 
Brinton's Corner 
Brinton's Crack 
Brinton's Direct 
Cheap Thrills 
Chiaroscuro 
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H) 
Chicago 
Evanston Township 
Evanston Township Direct 
Golf Road 
Puff N' Grunt Chimney 
Rococo Variations 
Rubberman 
Sheep Thrills 
South Side 
Stool Pigeon 

Brinton's Buttress 


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Administrators: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, Chris treggE, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Apr 16, 2002

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Unknown climber on the East Bluff, April 18, 2009....

Description 

Brinton's Buttress could be considered the crown jewel of the East Rampart. The buttress contains many high-quality climbs and is perhaps the most heavily visited formation on the East Bluff. Rubberman (5.13b), arguably the hardest climb at the Lake is located at the eastern end of the buttress, Brinton's Crack (5.6) is found on its southern face, and Berkeley (5.6) sits amongst other great climbs on the west face.


Getting There 

To find Brinton's Buttress hike up the CCC trail, turn left at The Monster and climb up rock steps through the talus field until you reach Pedestal Buttress. To access the top of Brinton's Buttress turn right and hike around the east end of the East Rampart wall. Turn back to the west and hike along the top of the cliff for 250 feet. To access the bottom of Brinton's Buttress turn left at Pedestal Buttress and hike on the climber's Trail for about 150 feet until you reach Brinton's Buttress.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Brinton's Buttress:
Puff N' Grunt Chimney   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   
Brinton's Crack   5.6     Trad   
Berkeley   5.6     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Rococo Variations   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Brinton's Direct   5.8     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet   
Chicago   5.9 R     Trad, 60 feet   
Chiaroscuro   5.9+     TR, 60 feet   
Chiaroscuro Direct (aka The H)   5.10a     TR   
Evanston Township Direct   5.11b     Trad, TR, 50 feet   
Stool Pigeon   5.11b R     Trad, 120 feet   
Cheap Thrills   5.12b/c R     Trad, TR   
Rubberman   5.13b     TR   
Browse More Classics in Brinton's Buttress

Featured Route For Brinton's Buttress
The start of Brinton's Direct  is to the left of the dihedral in the center of the picture

Brinton's Direct 5.8  WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Brinton's Buttress
Brinton's Direct is an excellent variation to the mega-classic Brinton's Crack. Rather than traversing right at the alcove (a la Brinton's Crack), Brinton's Direct forges a bold path straight up the face. These tenuous and airy moves lead directly (hence the name) to the top of the buttress. On lead, the climb protects fairly well, but it's just run-out enough to give it that unique Devil's Lake feel. All in all, The Direct is a very worthwhile route on one of the best chunks of stone in the par...[more]   Browse More Classics in WI


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Brinton's Buttress

BETA PHOTO: Brinton's Buttress

The classic, Brinton's.

The classic, Brinton's.

Brinton's Buttress 2-1-09

BETA PHOTO: Brinton's Buttress 2-1-09