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Start low on underclings, climb up and right through a big hueco. Move right using pinches, bust right to a big sidepull. Finish on edges. .
Beta: Begin on the underclings low and left in the roof. Right foot up, and bump right hand to the high part of the good undercling. Kneebar and slap around the arete. Right hand gaston and left toe hook to release the kneebar. Match the gaston and set right foot on the aforementioned undercling. Then bust out right to a good juggy sidepull match the pinch and get the left hand back into the pocket. Kneebar again and reach right hand up to a decent pocket. Left foot back step by right and do a hard move to a crimp on the face. Left foot up on the pinch and rock the weight over until you can stand up.
Crux is doing the big move out right to the good sidepull and doing the hard move to bring the left hand in from there. Goes straight up the crimps from there.
John Gass sends Bring the Heatwole here: Joes Valley 1
This problem has been dug out and begins on the back left part of the boulder on two underclings. Climbs out the roof then right until you can go up on crimps.
Oct 12, 2011
Just wanted to clarify that this has not been "dug out". It exists exactly as I found it.
Also, kneebar beta is lame.
That is all, carry on.
|By Dean Cool|
From: Boulder, CO
May 9, 2012
rating: V7 7A+
Get on this climb. It is super fun. The FA may not have used the knee bar beta, but in my opinion, that is one of the reasons to climb this thing.
Mar 17, 2013
rating: V7- 7A+
Avoiding the kneebars on this route would be extremely contrived. This unique problem has some great tech-nasty sequences and stays kinda shady. I really enjoyed this one. Then again, I know how to kneebar. If you use a knee pad, I imagine it makes it more like V6.