|South Peak - West Face
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Bring on the Nubiles is an awesomely exposed arete climb. It is best approached via the first pitch of West Pole, but it does have it's own first pitch which is quite run out.
P1: For this pitch begin just left of the tree at the start of West Pole and head up just right of the arete to a belay stance.
P2: Get ready! Climb straight up on thin cracks to a stance on a pedestal. From here reach up to a good horizontal and wander up near the arete to the top. Gear is sporadic - take what you can get and savor the exposure!
Standard rack. Emphasis on finger-size cams.
Jun 11, 2012
I found this climb to be well worth it. We did the first pitch which was extremely fun climbing, though covered in lichens and very uneasy (lots of loose rock and bad placements). The second pitch was stellar as well - better quality rock but more run out. Overall would highly recommend. Give this route some love! It deserves it.
Aug 19, 2013
Great route. There is a giant death block on the first pitch, which is one of the few chunks of that pitch that isn't covered in lichen. I drew a bunch of x's on it. Don't pull it out, because it would probably kill your belayer, then anyone else waiting for old man's route 200 feet below.
The last pitch is so very nice. Crux is much easier if you are tall.
Would be 4 stars if not for the dirtiness of the first pitch (first being 80 feet off the ground)
|By Andy Weinmann|
From: Alexandria, VA
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
I have to disagree with the other commenters on this climb on a couple points. First of all, the original submitter didn't even climb the first pitch...why submit the description then? Ugh.
P1: Start directly up from the two-bolt anchor shared with West Pole. Move up the corner/arete, passing some good stances and decent gear placements. Move back right onto the face, passing an obvious loose block (X marked on it) to some right-leaning, shallow cracks (offset cams!). Move up and gain better cracks that lead up to the small inverted V overhang. Place some bomber gear then pull the overhang on the left and continue up to the Thais Escape Ledge (#2 or #3 cam helpful for belay).
There's not as much loose rock as you might think on P1(thanks for the mark on the block Kirby!) and it's not that runout if you place some small gear. Take Offset Mastercams or similar gear and you'll be fine; they will go in the flaring cracks where nothing else will go. This makes the pitch PG. I think more people are doing this pitch so it's getting cleaner. It's a quality pitch with great exposure and some really fun moves...reasonable at 5.8.
The final pitch is spectacular. I don't know why Tess thinks this was more runout...you could probably aid this pitch. Small cams and nuts, but a #2 cam is really handy above the pedestal. I would take doubles of yellow and blue mastercams or similar gear.
All-in-all this is a 4-star route. Stellar positioning, great exposure and fun, strenuous-at-times moves on a beautiful steep face. This epitomizes Seneca climbing at it's best.
|By Mark Maier|
Oct 26, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
I think the first pitch is quite good, and would be better if it was climbed enough to clear off the lichen. It's not a really serious problem, but less lichen would be nicer.
I don't see this route as PG13. It's not trivial to protect. Small cams, probably offsets like Andy says, are necessary to avoid some runouts. The stances are not always great. But, with the right gear and reasonable ability to place it I don't see there being much danger.
And it is really in a spectacular spot with a great variety of climbing. Face moves, finger locks, even the occasional hand jam.