|West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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This is almost a great route. There is some really fun climbing on surprisingly good rock and really good gear at the cruxes. This section of cliff is more often than not overlooked for pretty obvious reasons (i.e. it looks like crap). With some more traffic, the lichen could clean up nicely. The only other drawback is the loose rock on the top ledge. If you were not careful, you could kill someone on the trail.
Where the trail hits the rock, there is a shallow dihedral that leads to a left-facing flake/crack. A #4 is useful here. Cruise up that crack and head towards a tree right above you. Before this tree, look for a hand ledge that leads right into the obvious, left-facing dihedral (#4 here also, or sling a chockstone). Head up nice jugs to a little ledge under the crux dihedral that is capped by a tiny tree/bush. Nice sharp finger locks and stemming get you through here with a good nut or TCU for pro. 20 more easy feet put you on the rotten ledge where the 2nd pitch of Rhombohedral begins.
Left of Rhombohedral where the trail meets the rock. From the top, it is an easy scramble (down and right) over to the rappel tree. New cord, as of today, and a single 70 gets you down.
SR, 2 #4s and 2 #3s could be helpful but not mandatory....
BETA PHOTO: The route starts in the shallow dihedral left of c...
Low on the route about to engage the jagged flake.
A close up of the crux dihedral.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Dec 29, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c PG13
This is a fun pitch. Better than pitch one of the Rhombohedral. If this was combined with the last pitches of the Rhombohedral, it would approach a three star climb.
Feb 8, 2013
The 20 ft. fingercrack crux is the only decent section of this 120 ft pitch, the rest is a teetering stack of rotten blocks, especially the initial pillar/flake which will soon be scattered about the trail.