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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Barrel of Monkeys S 
Bloke On The Side T 
Bridget the Midget T 
Byway T 
Chick on the Side T 
Conversions T,TR 
Court Jester T 
Crazy Stairs T 
Curving Dihedral T 
Dandi-Line T,TR 
Dead Letter Department T 
Drug Abuse T 
Erickson's Finish T 
False Prophet T 
Fever, The T 
Going Postal T 
Good Ship Venus T 
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Hanging Chad T 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 
Human Factor, The T 
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 
Ignominity T 
Ignore Me T 
Iron Horse T 
Knife, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Lost in the Netherlands T 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 
Mail Ridge, The T 
Mesca-Line T 
Muscle and Hate T 
Pony Express T 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 
Practice Climb 101 T 
Practice Wall T 
Prison Sex T 
Pygmy Pony T 
Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Reckoning T,S 
Rhombohedral T 
Seemingly Innocent T 
Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Bridget the Midget 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Harrison, Brooks, Stuberg 81
Page Views: 393
Submitted By: Mark Roth on Dec 29, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Near the top in the crux dihedral.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is almost a great route. There is some really fun climbing on surprisingly good rock and really good gear at the cruxes. This section of cliff is more often than not overlooked for pretty obvious reasons (i.e. it looks like crap). With some more traffic, the lichen could clean up nicely. The only other drawback is the loose rock on the top ledge. If you were not careful, you could kill someone on the trail.

Where the trail hits the rock, there is a shallow dihedral that leads to a left-facing flake/crack. A #4 is useful here. Cruise up that crack and head towards a tree right above you. Before this tree, look for a hand ledge that leads right into the obvious, left-facing dihedral (#4 here also, or sling a chockstone). Head up nice jugs to a little ledge under the crux dihedral that is capped by a tiny tree/bush. Nice sharp finger locks and stemming get you through here with a good nut or TCU for pro. 20 more easy feet put you on the rotten ledge where the 2nd pitch of Rhombohedral begins.

Location 

Left of Rhombohedral where the trail meets the rock. From the top, it is an easy scramble (down and right) over to the rappel tree. New cord, as of today, and a single 70 gets you down.

Protection 

SR, 2 #4s and 2 #3s could be helpful but not mandatory....


Photos of Bridget the Midget Slideshow Add Photo
The route starts in the shallow dihedral left of center. It then follows the jagged crack in the flake above before a hand traverse right to another crack.  The crux is the open book below the small tree at the top, center of the photo.
BETA PHOTO: The route starts in the shallow dihedral left of c...
Low on the route about to engage the jagged flake.
Low on the route about to engage the jagged flake.
A close up of the crux dihedral.
A close up of the crux dihedral.

Comments on Bridget the Midget Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Dec 29, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

This is a fun pitch. Better than pitch one of the Rhombohedral. If this was combined with the last pitches of the Rhombohedral, it would approach a three star climb.
By s.kimball
Feb 8, 2013

The 20 ft. fingercrack crux is the only decent section of this 120 ft pitch, the rest is a teetering stack of rotten blocks, especially the initial pillar/flake which will soon be scattered about the trail.