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Bridge to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Lee Hansche and Jakob Montoya, july 12th 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 942
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 13, 2010

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this is a good view of the route looking down from...

Description 

This is now the route that takes you highest up on the cliff. It has some really fun and exciting moves, great exposure, views and rock quality. It is basically an extension or second pitch to Abbey Normal 5.10c.

From the Abbey Normal anchors climb the very easy slab to the first bolt of Bridge (its about 20-25 feet to the bolt but maybe 5.1). From there climb up the corner under the roof, at the 3rd bolt make a really fun couple of moves out left and over the roof. Follow 3 more bolts up the low angle face to a tricky finish on small holds. Mantel the sloping ledge and take in the view, its amazing up there.

Be careful of a loose block above and left of the anchor.
I'd toss it down but i dont want to ruin the bolts on routes below.

Location 

Continuing up from the anchors of Abbey Normal.

Protection 

If you are linking the 2 pitches:
-i suggest long runners on the first 2 bolts of Bridge (that makes it run really smooth).
-you will need a 70m rope to get back to the ground.
-or you can rap it with 2 ropes.
-or you can lower to Abbey's anchor and then from there to the ground.
-or what ever else you come up with.


Photos of Bridge to Nowhere Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin pulling the first of two cruxes on Bridge to Nowhere...
Kevin pulling the first of two cruxes on Bridge to...
Kevin looking up at the upper (and more technical) crux on Bridge to Nowhere
Kevin looking up at the upper (and more technical)...
Bridge to Nowhere in the sun
BETA PHOTO: Bridge to Nowhere in the sun

Comments on Bridge to Nowhere Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 13, 2010

Yesterday Jakob and i spent the first half of the day putting up a second pitch to Abbey Normal 5.10c. It was way to hot to be up in the direct sun for a few hours. I had noticed the line last time i climbed Cow Patty 5.10a (in the spring). It was pretty clear that there was a nice route there but i ended up having to wait for the falcons to finish doing their thing... they've now finished, and i got to do my thing...

I first led the route ground up on gear (bad gear for the most part) digging through lichen to find holds... i did the same roof crux but took an easier finish on that run... after jakob followed me up we rapped in, giving it a really good cleaning and bolted it including a more direct and harder finish...
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 13, 2010

Lee, nice. Does this take you right up to the ridge line? If so, it might be a nice way to approach my 2 open projects in the gully way up in the Highlands, past Visions of Jerusalem. One could rap in to the base rather than approaching up the green slab.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 13, 2010

Thanks!
yeah it looks like a good way to get over there though it might still involve some funky tricks to get to your climbs it might be better than the gully climb...
i plan to explore Summit Crag in more detail sometime soon... including your routes up there, im psyched on that place...
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Aug 10, 2010

Mark- I was back up there today fixing a funky bolt on my route and i did set up an anchor to get to your projects... basically you would climb The Bridge to Nowhere and continue past the anchors clipping a random bolt about 15ft above, then traverse left and slightly down to a cluster of trees where i left an anchor of webbing with a rap ring... it might be a tension traverse situation but it would get you there...