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Bügeleisen
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Bresil 

Bresil 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 5 pitches, 660', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Yves and Claude Remy, 1994
Season: June-October
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: crastalva on Jul 21, 2011
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Pitch 3: Some run out on slab. Crux is the crack r...

Description 

Very interesting climbing, not only on slab as it appears from below. Check Jürg von Känel's guidebook "Plaisir West"


Location 

It's the northernmost route, direct on the rim


Protection 

Supplement the bolts with some medium sized Camelots. Run out in pitch 3



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Topping off
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By Colin Winter
Dec 27, 2011

We found the crux of the route to be the slab below the bulge, not the bulge itself, on pitch four.

For the final pitch, where the topo calls for a friend 1.5 placement in a pocket, you want to have exactly that - we had a yellow omegapac and it did not work, which made things a bit more exciting.