This crag offers up some of the most very varied climbing. Many crags offer either pockets or crimps, but this one has them both. So this place gives you the cool opportunity to practice some different styles of climbing. Also, the range of difficulty extends from 3 to 9+. There are a high density of 5s and 9s here, though there are only a total of 23 routes. The cliff is about 45 feet tall, well-protected, and steep.
From Erlangen, head east on the A3 to the A9 north towards Berlin. Take Exit 46 (Plech) and head towards Neuhaus. After reaching Neuhaus, continue driving towards Königstein. When you reach Königstein, keep driving through the town on the main road which kind of trends left. At the end of the town there's a sign headed towards Sulzbach with Holnstein. Head that way and on the left after about 300m or so is a green sign for Breitenstein. Turn left and head uphill until you see a parking lot on the left with a sign of the hiking trails around Koenigstein. Park here and walk through the little town of Breitenstein. After the last house, where the pavement ends continue about 40m and go right to the crag.
8 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Breitenstein:
Zur schönen Aussicht 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 50'
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